2022: Investments in What Bordeaux Does Best
It may sound surprising to describe 2022 as a breakout, turn-of-the-decade moment—especially at the outset. The vintage began with unusually warm and dry conditions, prompting many of us to brace for excess, over-extraction, or relentless heat. Yet as the wines start to land and open in bottle, I’m sensing something else entirely: an unlikely alchemy. The season’s heat became a crucible—sharpening focus, forcing the vines to tap deep into their roots; the consistency of the weather (no late drought shocks, no mildew threats) allowed each château to lean into detail, precision, and balance. What emerged is less about ripeness and more about architecture—wines that feel built to last, with energy, nuance, and a compelling tension.
I’ll be one of the first to admit that I had my doubts when tasting during En Primeur. But when I taste the wines now, after a few years in bottle, I taste wines that feel muscular but balanced, richly layered without being overt, alive with terroir as well as texture. The human hand is clear—but so, too, is the place. You can taste the intention: terroir over flash, rigor over opulence, purpose over vanity.
That said, a note of truth at the margins: these wines are priced high—among the top echelons of recent releases. But for what they offer—world-class pedigree, elegance, and staying power—they still feel like relative bargains compared to what you might expect when thinking about collectibles performing at a remarkable level. Perhaps they’re not the wines that will double in value any time soon, but they are brilliant examples of fine-wine luxury—an investment in what Bordeaux does best, captured in a bottle.
Here are some of the standout 2022s now arriving at K&L, each carrying the weight of its estate and the vintage’s unique energy:
2022 Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac $249.99 100WA A cornerstone for K&L and a timeless expression under Nicolas Glumineau’s guidance. Deeply Pauillac, beautifully measured—they firmly believe it is one of their all-time greats, and I agree.
2022 Laroque, St-Emilion $39.99 97JA 97JD Château Laroque delivers controlled precision and renewed vibrancy—St-Émilion limestone clarity at a still-lovable price point. Top-tier press to rival wines at multiples of this price.
2022 Léoville-Barton, St-Julien $109.99 98JA 98JD Elegance and rigor combine in true Barton fashion: classic Médoc class, gracefully adapted to the warmth of the vintage. A stunningly beautiful Léoville Barton.
2022 Haut-Bages-Libéral, Pauillac $54.99 97VN 96JD Next door to Latour, this wine exemplifies taut power and precision. An ascendant estate with a clear statement of intent.
2022 Branaire-Ducru, St-Julien $59.99 97DC 97JD One of Saint-Julien’s high points in recent memory—structured, harmonious, and quietly confident. Credit to François-Xavier Maroteaux for a monumental release, and once again, one of the great buys in Bordeaux and beyond.
2022 Montrose, St-Estèphe $239.99 100WA 100JD 100VN If Montrose couldn’t get any better, they just did. Pure, powerful, and profoundly balanced—perfectly executed. This is epic, and encompasses everything that makes Montrose a First Growth in everything but name.
2022 Canon, St-Emilion $199.99 100WA 100JD A pinnacle expression from this modern icon. Grace, density, clarity—complete, focused, and utterly compelling. While I appreciate that Canon was a bit more of a bargain just a decade ago, this is a wine that should now be compared only to the finest on the Right Bank.
2022 Beau-Séjour Bécot, St-Emilion $109.99 100VN A wine that speaks of place, passion, and precision—a benchmark for Bordeaux ambition. This is a property that every Bordeaux lover and collector needs to take seriously, and this vintage is not to be missed.