Duménil and Jany Poret: One House, Two Terroirs

Today I drove over to La Petite Montagne to visit Frédérique and Hughes in the village of Sacy. They own 15 acres of vineyard in this village as well as 20 acres in the villages of Chigny-les-Roses, Rilly-la-Montagne, and Ludes. They split their production between Sacy vines, which include the historic Jany Poret name, and the rest, which are just called Duménil to respect the two separate families that became one when they married. All their wines are entirely 1er Cru, stainless-steel-fermented, and of exceptional quality. They have been members of the association “Special Club” since 2010, and, like all the others in this group, are in the top echelon of grower Champagne.

Just before I left, we received a shipment of their wines, and I hope that you will try them. They are extraordinarily good values and great representatives of the special terroir on the Montagne de Reims. The Duménil (Jany Poret) 1er Cru Brut Champagne is a blend of 60% Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir, and 10% Chardonnay, exclusively from the 1er Cru of Sacy, just next to Écueil. Not only is this wine aged for a minimum of three years on the lees, but it also benefits from an addition of 50% reserve wine. The current batch is based on the 2018 vintage with 2017, 2016, and 2015 also in the blend. The wine has very nice fresh bread aromas and some clean, green pear notes from the Meunier. The cut and minerality from the 1er Cru sites and low dosage make for a dry back end. It was very difficult for me just to taste this instead of drinking it. What a value!

We also received the last of the 2013 Duménil "Special Club" 1er Cru Brut Champagne, which is sold out at the property—this is a rare fine wine experience in Champagne for under $50. It is a combination of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay from the coldest vintage in a very, very long time in Champagne. At nine years old, I find the Chardonnay to be in front right now, with excellent Puligny-Montrachet-like limey drive. Even though the wine is aged for five years more than the nonvintage, I find it off-the-charts fresh and perfect for shellfish or sushi now—or perhaps after a rest for a few years in your good cellar. The nose is framed with baguette toast, and the finish is as long as one could ask for.

A toast to you!

- Gary Westby, K&L Champagne Buyer