2010 Billecart-Salmon Rosé: The Champagne of 2023

Billecart-Salmon Cellarmaster Florent Nys

It is only rarely in my career that I have encountered a Champagne as entrancing as the just-released 2010 Billecart-Salmon Rosé $119.99. I first tasted it on June 17th with Florent Nys, the cellarmaster of Billecart-Salmon at the property in Mareuil. We tasted two samples, one freshly disgorged with no dosage, and one at 3g/l, which ended up being the choice for this cuvée. This amazing wine is in fact declassified cuvée Elisabeth Salmon, a wine that we just sold out at $199.99 (and we never get enough!). But I found it better than any young Elisabeth I have ever tasted… Apparently, that was the problem with this wine, the tasting panel at Billecart found it too appealing early, and are worried that it won’t age for generations the way they want an Elisabeth to do. That being said, this wine is going to still drink great in 2035, and certainly beyond that in magnum.

I just tasted it for a second time this month, with Mr. Alexandre Bader from Billecart here at K&L, and, with almost a year on the cork, it is now showing even better!

Alexandre Bader from Billecart-Salmon.

The 2010 is composed of 55% Chardonnay from the Crus of Chouilly, Mesnil, and Cramant and 45% Pinot Noir from Verzenay, Mareuil, and Ludes. It was vinified completely in stainless steel with partial malolactic fermentation, gaining its color from red wine grown in the Valleofois vineyard. This vineyard sits next to the mighty Clos des Goisses in Mareuil, and the ancient vines add subtle depth to this rosé that must be tasted to be believed.

With a gorgeous strawberry and copper color and the most perfect tiny bead of bubbles, this wine is just fun to look at. On the nose, it has the pastry crust aromas from over 10 years of aging on the lees, and subtle, detailed, dark Maraschino cherry from the ancient-vine Pinot Noir that gives the wine its color. The easy drinking, bright, and light style of this wine belies the inner complexity of spice, dried fruit, and deep chalky minerality in the glass if you pay attention to it. This is a chance to obtain the unattainable, and I will be putting a case in my cellar for the future… If I can keep my hands off of it!

A toast to you!

- Gary Westby, Champagne Buyer