I love Thanksgiving. I love it so much that we usually do it twice a year chez Westby. I love it so much that I own a turkey suit and wear it every year the day before Thanksgiving in the store. I love it so much that I have accumulated some weight from enjoying it to its fullest—mostly by stuffing myself with stuffing. Why do I love it? Because it is the best time to be thankful for all of life’s blessings, and to celebrate those blessings with food, friends, rosé Champagne and red Burgundy!
Read MoreThis summer, K&L’s Champagne Buyer Gary Westby was once again honored with an invitation to join the Krug Ambassade Voyage—one of the most exclusive programs in the wine world. To celebrate this extraordinary experience, we’re spotlighting a selection of rare Krug bottlings straight from the house, alongside collectible icons from Champagne’s most storied names.
Read MoreSometimes a Champagne can be just too delicious. It seems crazy, but the 2015 Billecart-Salmon Rosé Champagne $119.99, at first destined to become a Cuvée Elisabeth, the pinnacle of rosé mastery at Champagne Billecart-Salmon, was declassified for just this reason. Mathieu Roland-Billecart, the seventh-generation CEO of this great house, explained that this 2015 will not last two more generations, so he made the difficult decision to sell it as Le Rosé after blending it and bottling it with the original intention of making it an Elisabeth, their top-of-the-line rosé. If you are looking for a profoundly great wine to drink tonight or over the next 10 years, look no further, this is the kind of deal that comes along rarely in the realm of truly top-end luxury cuvées.
Read MoreAs I criss-cross Champagne this spring, one theme keeps popping up: 2024 is shaping up beautifully in the cellar—but we collectors can’t drink futures on Mother’s Day. So I’ve pulled together bottles that are ready to thrill right now. First up is the crown jewel of my 25-year buying career, the transcendent 2008 Louis Roederer “Cristal”—direct from the maison and showing every bit of its triple-digit pedigree. I’ll also share notes from the Kimmeridgian soils of Les Riceys with Vivien Lamoureux and give you a sneak peek at Alexandre Le Brun’s rain-soaked yet dazzling 2024 vins clairs. Finally, because brunch without pink bubbles is just breakfast, I’ve hand-picked six rosé Champagnes that deliver serious finesse and pure festive joy. Grab a glass and dive in—there’s plenty to celebrate.
Read MoreYou could make the case that any season is rosé season, especially in California, but there's no denying that the dog days of summer are when these pink gems really shine. Today's newsletter explores the category in depth, starting with Gary Westby's top picks in rosé Champagne. Keith Mabry offers up his favorite Provence performers, plus a pair of stellar artisan beauties from Greece and Lebanon. Finally, we'll take a look at how the category has gone from pedestrian to profound with a sampling of the world's finest collectible renditions.
Read MoreRosé has always been fun, but for long time it was pretty easily dismissed in most wine circles. Hardly ever made with quality grapes, it wasn’t taken very seriously in the U.S.; until a decade or so ago, you’d hardly ever find it on restaurant wine lists. But somewhere along the way, we got the memo! More serious domestic winemakers began making it; more importers began bringing in high-quality examples from abroad; celebrities even starting dipping their toes in the rosé game. It can be a stunningly complex wine in its own right when made with quality fruit and winemaking techniques. Rosé has long been the reigning queen of cheap and cheerful, but some versions are so well made and special that they merit a space in your cellar. Some rosé can develop in the bottle and develop additional depth and character with age. From rosé Champagne to cult-caliber Lebanese bottlings, rosé is—finally—getting its moment in the sun.
Read MoreNo conversation about rosé wine would be complete without including the sublime and capricious wines of Champagne. For me, most of the best and all of the worst Champagnes that I have had have been rosé—and for good reason. This far north, it is very tricky to get the skins of the grapes perfect, and to introduce color to the wine, at least part of it has to be macerated with the skins. In the south of France, on the coasts of Provence, the sunny, dry weather is moderated by the cooling influence of the sea, but in Champagne, even the summers can be wet, leading to rot. Most producers in the area opt to farm one small plot like a garden, using a different selection or clone of grapes, often very old vines with different pruning and lots of extra work like green harvesting. From this plot they will make a dark red wine that is blended into a base of white wine to make rosé. All three of the Champagnes in this article share this technique, and the first even a little more!
Read MoreVenus, the Roman goddess of love, has often been painted in pink, and pink has somehow become interwoven with our cultural associations of romance. As Valentine’s Day approaches, we’re here to celebrate the pink—in bubbly form, of course.
Read MoreWhen I think of being thankful this time of year, one of the first things that pops into my mind is my gratitude to the farmers who feed us and grow the grapes for the wines that make our lives so much better. The first person who comes to mind is Paul-Vincent Ariston, the boss at Champagne Aspasie in the tiny village of Brouillet. He is one of the hardest working men I know, and one of the most patient. At home this year we will be starting off our Thanksgiving festivities with his excellent Ariston Aspasie "Réserve" Brut Champagne $34.99.
Read MoreEarlier this week, the K&L Champagne team kicked off our annual staff summit with a dinner hosted by Billecart-Salmon. It has become a welcome tradition to start off our yearly survey of all the grande marque producers with a sushi dinner at my place featuring the wines of this great house. Christian Esser, who just returned from a visit to Billecart, and Eric Lecours presented the wines and treated Scott Beckerley, Michael Benoit, Philip Roufail, Will Langhi, Cinnamon and me to a great spread from Kanpai sushi in Palo Alto.
Read MoreNothing beats a tasting at the dining room table of a great grower, especially when that grower is Jean-Baptiste Jacquesson and the dining room looks out onto the vineyards of Troissy in the Marne Valley.
Read MoreIt is only rarely in my career that I have encountered a Champagne as entrancing as the just-released 2010 Billecart-Salmon Rosé.
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