2022 Paul Pernot: The Maestro of Puligny Montrachet
A visit to Domaine Paul Pernot is always a treat. Often, you will be welcomed by the man himself. Paul Pernot has run the domaine since the 1950s and is easily in his 90s, but he’s still spry. Speaking very little English, he is often assisted by his two sons who both are heavily involved in the running of the domaine. With very large holdings in Puligny-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Domaine Paul Pernot is one of the more important growers in this region. The wines usually see only 25% new oak that is lightly toasted, so the wines are able to speak of the terroir from which they come. He has serious holdings in Les Pucelles, Clos de la Garenne, Champ Canet, and is the largest land owner in Les Folatières. There’s no doubt that Paul Pernot knows Puligny-Montrachet, and his wines reflect that intimate connection to the place.
A diverse portfolio that includes a stunning entry-level Bourgogne Blanc, the 2022 Domaine Paul Pernot Côte d'Or Bourgogne Blanc $29.99 displays subtle notes of white flowers and orchard fruits with hints of wet stone and green herbs. Medium-bodied and wonderfully balanced, this is a great Bourgogne Blanc for the money. With his strong offerings in Meursault, Beaune, and Volnay, Paul-Pernot demonstrates he’s not just a one-trick pony in Puligny Montrachet.
As good as all his wines are, Puligny-Montrachet is really where Domaine Paul Pernot shines, especially when you factor in the prices! The 2022 Domaine Paul Pernot Puligny-Montrachet $69.99 90pts Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy comes from vines 55-60 years of age and shows remarkable depth with pretty fruit notes and perfect balance. As prices in Puligny-Montrachet have soared, it is a revelation to get quality this high in Puligny Montrachet at this price.
The next quartet of 1er Cru Puligny Montrachets from Paul Pernot are all priced at $99.99, which makes them some of the most affordable 1er Cru Puligny Montrachets I have seen post-pandemic. The 2022 Domaine Paul Pernot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Folatières" 93pts Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy has intense white fruits mixed with citrus-leaning fruit flavors and zippy acidity. Long, complex and beautifully balanced, this is a fabulous Puligny-Montrachet. The 2022 Domaine Paul Pernot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru "Champ Canet" 92pts Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy is pale in color with brilliant lime notes and bright acidity. Medium-bodied and elegantly structured, this is an approachable 1er Cru that is ready to be enjoyed. The 2022 Domaine Paul Pernot Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru “Clos de la Garenne” 93pts Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy is a larger-scale white Burgundy with more intensity of fruit and a bigger hit of oak and tannin. This is the broadest-shouldered of the 1er Crus from Puligny-Montrachet with the exception of the more expensive Les Pucelles. The 2022 Domaine Paul Pernot Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru “Les Chalumaux” 91pts Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy is a tightly wound, intense wine that shimmers with layer-upon-layer of lemon flavors and aromas. A complex and beguiling wine that is made from their smallest holding in Puligny Montrachet.
The last Puligny Montrachet from Domaine Paul Pernot is the 2022 Domaine Paul Pernot Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru “Les Pucelles” $139.99 93pts Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy. This is the biggest of all the Puligny Montrachets, showing a level of intensity and richness that others rarely reach. This wine sees a tad more oak, which is needed to frame the bevy of citrus and mineral notes that burst from this wine. Powerful and regal, the Les Pucelles is an exceptional example of this top vineyard site from Paul Pernot.
This is an epic line-up of fantastic 1er Cru Puligny Montrachets from a very strong vintage that should not be missed!