Born of Barossa: Lienert Wines Deliver on Delicious
It’s rare that these days for me to sit down at a winery and be totally blown away by a label I’ve never seen before. But that’s exactly what happened last June when I was at the Artisans of Barossa tasting room in South Australia. The winery, in this case, was Lienert. The Roussanne was the first wine that stopped me in my tracks. Gorgeous acid, sweet fruit, and beautiful notes of honeycomb immediately struck me. The same was true for the Grenache and the Mourvèdre, both stunningly delicious wines that blew me away. Moments later I was looking through my notes trying to figure out how to get in touch with these guys when a broad-shouldered gentlemen with a reddish beard plopped down in the the chair across from me and extended his hand for a shake, “Hi there, I’m James Lienert.”
James is the winemaker. He has a long history of working at Penfolds, starting right after graduating high school, then set out to work vintages in Central Otago, Sonoma, and the Mosel, where he honed his skills and winemaking knowledge before returning to the Barossa to work for Penfolds as a winemaker. John is the viticulture manager who oversaw the planting of the family's estate vineyards and worked for Barossa producer Teusner for seven years. They first laid down vines on the family’s homestead and have been slowly growing ever since. Their wines are crafted from estate fruit with a small-lot, artisanal approach. If I were to sum up their offerings in one word, it’d be “delicious.” Their wines are characterized by upfront drinkability and excellent value at their price points. Here are some top Lienert wines I urge you to try:
The moment I tasted the 2021 Lienert Vineyards Roussanne Barossa Valley $19.99, I knew I had to bring these wines to K&L. Many producers have veered off track with Roussanne, picking it later in the year when it develops its strongest varietal characteristics, such as a honeycomb aspect. At this stage, there's little acid left, and it often sees élevage with a high percentage of new oak. I prefer a racy style, picked earlier and aged in stainless steel to preserve aromatics and showcase bright acidity. The Lienert Roussanne is made in this style. It’s supremely aromatic with melon rind, white flowers, beeswax, and orange peel. On the palate, it’s lean, bright, and dramatic. This is a top-three all-time Roussanne for me and a great introduction for those unfamiliar with the variety. It’s really, really good.
The 2022 Lienert Vineyards Grenache Barossa Valley $19.99 is another phenomenal wine. Their estate Grenache is fully destemmed, cold-fermented with wild yeast, and aged in hogsheads with approximately 15% new oak. This wine is a clear example of the new, lighter, and medium-bodied Grenache trending in the Barossa. It’s stone-cold delicious, with sweet and sour strawberry notes at its core. Medium-bodied with crunchy tannins, it offers an abundance of sweet fruit in a light package with a mild touch of tannins at the finish. A gorgeous wine for a fall afternoon on the porch, it’s simply delicious Grenache.
Another wine I loved from Lienert is the 2021 Lienert Vineyards Mataro Barossa Valley $19.99. This Mataro is neither the big, brawny style of Mourvèdre found in Bandol nor the newer, light-extraction examples from current California producers. It strikes a middle ground, emphasizing bright, fruity character in contrast to the variety's darker, meatier aspects. Made in a semi-carbonic style, this Mataro brings juiciness to the forefront. Charcoal, braised meats, black cherry, and touches of clove and anise compete on the nose. On the palate, more pronounced notes of black cherry, fresh fig, and strawberries emerge. It’s a unique take on Mourvèdre/Mataro that is best served with a slight chill.
Lienert’s signature wine is the 2018 Lienert Vineyards Shiraz Barossa Valley $19.99. Sourced from the hilltop vineyard surrounding the family home, the “House Block” is planted in rich red clay soils over limestone on a northwest-facing slope extending from the highest point on the estate. You can almost smell the red clay earth in this glass. Slight notes of black pepper, cassis leaf, fully ripened cherry, and savory undertones are present. Decadently fruited on the palate, this wine leans slightly back towards medium-bodied with a prickly tannin structure and a long, resonating finish. Anyone who enjoys wines from Torbreck or Ben Glaetzer would appreciate the Lienert Shiraz. An exceptional value at its price.
Finally, we’ve brought in just a handful of bottles of the 2018 Lienert Vineyards "Laudamus" Shiraz Barossa Valley $39.99. The highest level of wine the family makes, the Laudamus is a reserve blend of their Barossa Valley Shiraz. Top barrels and a preference for new French oak are used, and it’s only made in the best vintages. An outstanding deal at its price, the Laudamus is comparable to $100 wines from producers like Torbreck, Two Hands, and Greenock Creek. Grab a bottle if you can, because these will go quickly.
We’re thrilled to work directly with Lienert and represent them in the United States for the first time. The family’s pedigree, their history, and, most importantly, the absolutely delicious wines they craft are a perfect addition to the shelves at K&L. I hope you’ll have the chance to try them.