The New Wave of Bourgogne Rouge
Thirty years ago when I first started out in the wine business, I honestly was not a big fan of Bourgogne Rouge. They were clipped, hard-edged, and lacking that beautiful fruit we associate with Red Burgundy. Today, however, everything has changed! The new generation of Bourgogne Rouges are flat-out delicious and often represent not only the best value to be had in Red Burgundy but also serve as a great introduction to the house style of their producers. The recent batch of landings all from either the 2022 or 2023 vintage—both of which were solar—are fresh, bright, lively, balanced, and packed with gorgeous fruit flavors.
Fans of a bit more rustic style will enjoy the 2022 Domaine Alain Michelot Bourgogne Rouge $29.99, which displays excellent red fruits, spice, a touch of earth, and firm tannins. Next up is a dynamic duo from Domaine Parent, a producer with impressive holdings in both Pommard and Corton. The 2023 Domaine Parent Bourgogne Rouge “Cuvee XIV” $34.99 is a pretty, approachable Bourgogne Rouge that has supple red fruit flavors, cola notes and spice with a succulent, easy-drinking feel.
If you’re in search of a bit more structure the 2023 Domaine Parent Bourgogne Côte d'Or Rouge "Sélection Pomone" $54.99 is a complex, layered offering loaded with sappy red and black fruits, spice and hints of crushed rock. There’s an energy and drive here that feels very Pommardesque.
Three producers known mainly for their white offerings also have made some very impressive Bourgogne Rouges. The 2023 Philippe Colin Bourgogne Rouge $34.99 is a crisp, fresh, high-toned Bourgogne Rouge that has a red fruit and savory hit that gets your juices flowing.
The 2022 Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson Bourgogne Rouge $39.99 95JS comes from a producer known for making some of the best St-Romains of the appellation. Their Bourgogne Rouge is made similarly to their Blancs with racy acidity, bright cherry fruit and hints of plum. A racy red that is an ideal food wine. Lastly, we have the 2023 Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Bourgogne Rouge “Les Grandes Terres” $42.99, which comes from one of the most underrated appellations for red Burgundy, Chassagne-Montrachet. This wine has excellent depth, layers of red to black fruit, wonderful spice and great energy. This is a top-notch Bourgogne Rouge that is drinking deliciously right now!
We have three fabulous Bourgogne Rouges left, with two originating from Volnay. Our first comes from an up-and-coming star in Volnay named Pierrick Bouley. Pierrick took over his parent’s property Pascal Bouley 10+ years ago and is now fashioning flat-out stunning wines. The 2022 Domaine Pierrick Bouley Bourgogne Cote d’Or $44.99 feels very Volnayesque with soft, supple dark red fruits, notes of stone and earth with wonderful length and great energy on the palate. First we had the young lion of Volnay and now we have the old lion of Volnay in the 2022 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne Rouge $59.99, which feels old-world and rustic with darker berry fruit, spice, firm tannins, and a deep core of fruit. This is a Bourgogne Rouge that feels like it could sleep in your cellar for a few years.
Last but not least is the 2022 Hereszytn-Mazzini Bourgogne Rouge “Champ Franc” $39.99 from a producer who is known to source their fruit from Gevrey Chambertin. You can feel the Gevrey Chambertin influence here with darker fruits moving towards purple with hints of col and spice along with a dark core of fruit and earth. This is another producer to keep an eye on!