Greek Red Wines Are Better Than Ever
Reds definitely took a back seat to their white counterparts when Greek wines reemerged on the international wine scene a decade ago. The red grapes’ popularity suffered from difficult-to-pronounce names and a decided rusticity at the time. So much has advanced over the last decade, and I now find myself just as excited for the reds that are arriving as I was for the whites that were hitting our shores those short 10 years ago. The main grape in the north is Xinomavro (kseen-o-mav-ro) which is often referred to as Greece’s Nebbiolo. This grape is known for its dark color (mavro means black) and its high acidity and tannic texture (xino means acid). There are so many styles emerging from the classic regions of Amyndeon and Naoussa in Macedon).
This is mountainous country with a mix of high-altitude vineyards and great terroirs from alluvial runoff. There are some truly exciting wines coming from these regions.
In the south, you have Agiorgitiko—quite a mouthful but try it like this: eye-your-gitty-ko. Close enough. This grape has a juicer profile often described as Sangiovese-like but I think it’s closer to Nero d’Avola from Sicily, with darker berry fruit but sweeter warmer tannic structure. It’s easy to drink on its own.
A host of other reds are beginning to find their footing too, including Mavrodaphne, Mavrotragano, Limniona, and Liatiko. You’ll see them sometimes on their own and sometime in blends. But be not afraid, they will be bringing some fun new flavors to the dinner table as they begin to become more readily available.
Here are some of my top picks in Greek reds right now:
2021 Alpha Estate "Hedgehog Vineyard" Xinomavro Amyndeon $22.99 95DC This is my handshake red when it comes to Xinomavro, meaning I use it as a fool-proof intro to Greek reds. This more supple, smooth version of Xino has wonderful notes of Maraska cherry, dried plum, and sweet herbs. It is gentler on the palate than some of the more robust Xinomavros and is great with food.
2022 Kappa Winery "Kokkymelo" Xinomavro Naoussa $27.99 This is the more classical definition of this great grape variety. Beautiful acid structure and deep tannins give you that Nebbiolo-like character with its own level of finesse.
2022 Oneos Mittas Xinomavro Naoussa $24.99 I love the story here: the family owned a vineyard and was selling the grapes to other producers. The son ran a bike shop, decided he wanted to make wine, and converted the shop into his winery. Yes, there are still lots of bicycle parts hanging from the walls and ceiling. Still made from the family’s grapes, this micro-production wine is textured with beautiful acidity and a light tannic grip. This has more of that Nebbiolo-like feel and has so much joy to offer in the glass. I have had it with braised beef cheeks and it was one of my all-time favorite pairings.
2013 Domaine Tatsis Xinomavro Macedonia $34.99 The Tatsis brothers are old-school bikers. Their yard is filled with reclaimed metal crafted into wild sculptures. They rebuild most of their own equipment and do it all with organic and biodynamic principals. They also do it while holding their wines back until they feel they are ready to drink. The 2013 is the current release, and it is absolutely lovely. Dried cherry, thyme, rosemary, leather, and orange peel make for an engaging and compelling red.
2022 Iliana Malihin Liatiko Rethymno $34.99 Crete’s signature white is Vidiano and its red is Liatiko. And through the lens of Iliana Malahin’s winemaking, these grapes shine. There could be no better intro to these grapes. These are the grapes to be on the lookout for as we see more wines coming from Crete. Liatiko generally has a medium-bodied texture and higher acid. Somewhere close to northern Rhône Syrah in flavor meets cool climate Pinot’s structure. Savory and spicy with elegant tannins. A seafood-friendly red if ever there was one.
2020 Sclavos “Thiniatiko” Slopes of Aeonos $49.99 One of my wow wines on my last trip to Greece. I had the fortune to visit Sclavos on the island of Kefalonia. There are a ton of emerging reds coming from this beautiful island in the Ionian Sea, on the western side of Greece. It is more pine forested and the soils are limestone based. The Thiniatiko is a blend from a tiny parcel next to the owners house. Robust and full-bodied, this is a meaty red that has depth and loads of flavor. When I tasted it, I asked, “How would this age? “They were kind enough to bring out every vintage they had made–about six of them and we tried them all. This is like the king Brunello of the island. Compelling and complex and I can’t wait to see how this newest vintage develops.
- Keith Mabry, Greek Wine Buyer