Maxime Toubart 2008 "Heritage" Brut Champagne: The 2008 That Waited 16 Years
Winemaker Maxime Toubart. Photo by Gary Westby, K&L Champagne Buyer.
The 2008 Maxime Toubart "Heritage" Brut Champagne $59.99 spent 16 years on the lees before release, and only 5,000 bottles were made. Le Breuil is not yet one of the most famous villages in the Champagne region. This cold microclimate in the far southwest portion of the Marne Valley is far off the beaten track, and there is just as much action with cattle for Brie de Meaux here as there is vineyard. But just like south of Épernay with growers like Alex Le Brun and Laherte, I think soon Le Breuil will become much more well known, as it is easy to still make champagne of incredible freshness here in a warming climate. I think the wines of Maxime Toubart will lead the way in bringing more attention to this village. Those of you who have been in our Champagne Club for a while already know his wines and both times they have been featured there the response was fantastic.
The 2008 Heritage
Because of that response, we were very lucky to get a chance to get an allocation of something truly special from him, the 2008 Maxime Toubart "Heritage" Brut Champagne $59.99. No, that is not a typo. He has been hanging onto this 2008 for all this time, and it is just now being released, at a price that most champagne lovers can afford. And it is spectacular.
Because Le Breuil is so cold, and the 2008 vintage was so racy, the entire production (just 5,000 bottles) was kept on the lees for 16 years. It is composed of 50% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, and 15% Meunier and the vinification was done in stainless steel. This long-aged bottle, from the best vintage of my career, is one of the most laughably great deals that I have been able to offer in 26 years as the Champagne buyer here at K&L. The super long aging (this is being released after Bollinger RD and Dom Pérignon P2 2008 after all!) has given this wine the fine brioche, the delicate beurre d'Issigny aromas and the pinpoint stream of fine bubbles that can't be had any other way.
The best vintage of the 21st century has given it concentration, length, and a Puligny-Montrachet like lime character. This is a wine that will cellar well, and the long, detailed finish, loaded with freshness and chalk is something one does not expect even from a bottle at twice the price. Don't wait to case up on this.
Also Arrived: 2018 Pur Meunier
Three generations of Toubarts replanting in Le Breiul.
We also got his signature, single vineyard wine, the delicious and characterful 2018 Maxime Toubart "Pur Meunier" Brut Champagne $49.99. The contrast between one of the coldest sites in Champagne and the warmest vintage in the region's history have made for something really special here. The over 40-year-old plot has given us an example of the fresher and lighter side of Meunier, with clean baguette toast and crisp pear aromas and flavors. Meunier champagnes go great with pâté and mushroom appetizers, and this one is clean enough to go with nothing but a glass and good company. Don't miss out on these fantastic wines!! A toast to you!