Maxime Toubart held his 2008 Héritage 16 years on the lees before release. Just 5,000 bottles from the cold microclimate of Le Breuil. $59.99.
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Kerry Kennell’s Club Italiano picks: a bracing, flinty Vespaiolo grown on volcanic soil in Breganze—from a grape named for the wasps that swarm it—and a pale, atmospheric Langhe Nebbiolo from Treiso, in the heart of Barbaresco.
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One of the biggest misunderstandings about domestic wine—California wine especially—is that all the wines are big and fruity because California is a sunny, hot place to grow grapes. I hear time and again that people prefer “Old World” wines because California is too hot and the wines are all too big and high in alcohol. Now, apologies in advance if that’s your take on things, but it’s just plain wrong.
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Every time I go to the picturesque, hilltop town of Monthelon to visit Alex Le Brun, he wears his Giants gear, and it makes me feel so welcome. We looked in the vineyards, tasted his 2024 vin clair (the still wine before the second fermentation in the bottle) and also his current and a few upcoming releases. It was the best part of my day!
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I have just returned from a nine-day trip to Burgundy where I was able to taste the 2023 vintage from bottle as well as many 2024 wines from barrel. I also spent a lot of time discussing economic global trends with our winery partners. Going over to taste is an annual trip, and I always appreciate re-tasting a vintage in bottle that I had previously tasted from barrel as well as tasting the next vintage we’ll be selling. 2023s are excellent: loaded with fruit and very fresh and energetic, though a tad less rich and complex than their 2022 counterparts. The whites excelled once again while the reds are delicious with wonderful aromas and pure red fruits cores across the board.
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We’re back on the trail, getting ready to taste the 2024s in Bordeaux, while catching up with our friends in the region. It is one of the great traditions in the world of fine wine—and quickly becoming an indispensable part of my year. The exhausting (trust me…) trek through the region will give us a wonderful perspective on the wines that will be released for sale as soon as next week—another chapter in the storied history of Bordeaux.
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Sicily is probably my favorite Italian wine region. I love the people, the colors, the food, and, of course, the wine. I like to think of Sicily as the original melting pot, the real heartland of the world. The wines found throughout the region speak to this diversity with brilliance, and represent some unique and singular expressions.
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This past week we had the pleasure of welcoming Séverine Bourrier from Château de l’Ou to all of K&L’s store locations. Château de L’Ou is based in the Roussillon, the French Catalan region that borders Spain on the Mediterranean side of France. Séverine’s wines are singular expressions of Syrah and Grenache that are reference points for this region.
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I’ll have to admit, and have received feedback as such, that I’ve often been a bit too cynical about the vintage at hand, or the market conditions that challenge the primeur campaign. Perhaps I’m just trying to make sure producers share our stress and reduce their prices. It’s also a tough position to be in–we’re dropped into the middle of the action for a brief week, being pulled in many directions. Avoiding the stress of it is like landing in the middle of a storm and trying to ignore the wind. But today, we’re starting to slow down, and perhaps it is time to focus on some of the bright spots from the last few days.
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Yesterday was a day of exploring Bordeaux, discovering a vintage, tasting First Growths (and wines that rivaled them), and spending time with friends new and old. All in all, it was a great day to be part of the people, wines, and region of Bordeaux. Unfortunately, it has become clear that it will take a bit more than a day to figure out this sometimes confounding, sometimes profound, and very unique vintage that’s about to shape the market. Conclusions for these wines will come in a matter of days, weeks, and years, but I’ll not be able to draw anything today.
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I have long believed that the Santa Cruz Mountains are a truly special place to grow grapes. This rugged coastal range forced up by the collision of two tectonic plates has an incredible bounty of complex soils. It’s a geological kaleidoscope of ancient uplifted seabed, volcanic deposits, and metamorphic rock bent and twisted by the immense pressures below. All of this is churned up by the San Andreas fault and weathered down by several millennia of coastal storms.
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Rutherglen is a wine and region of its own. For those who are not familiar, Rutherglen is a classic, legacy Australian wine. Since the 19th century, a small group of determined producers has been making this fortified dessert wine in the harsh, continental climate of North Central Victoria. Everything you want in a wine region is here: a unique and distinctive style, generational winemaking, and an honest, incredibly tenacious community of winemakers determined to show the world the beauty that they craft. Take one look at Rutherglen winemaker Steve Chambers’ hands, and they’ll tell you everything you need to know about the fortitude and hands-on work of this incredible wine region.
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