One of the biggest misunderstandings about domestic wine—California wine especially—is that all the wines are big and fruity because California is a sunny, hot place to grow grapes. I hear time and again that people prefer “Old World” wines because California is too hot and the wines are all too big and high in alcohol. Now, apologies in advance if that’s your take on things, but it’s just plain wrong.
Read MoreEvery time I go to the picturesque, hilltop town of Monthelon to visit Alex Le Brun, he wears his Giants gear, and it makes me feel so welcome. We looked in the vineyards, tasted his 2024 vin clair (the still wine before the second fermentation in the bottle) and also his current and a few upcoming releases. It was the best part of my day!
Read MoreWe’re back on the trail, getting ready to taste the 2024s in Bordeaux, while catching up with our friends in the region. It is one of the great traditions in the world of fine wine—and quickly becoming an indispensable part of my year. The exhausting (trust me…) trek through the region will give us a wonderful perspective on the wines that will be released for sale as soon as next week—another chapter in the storied history of Bordeaux.
Read MoreI’ll have to admit, and have received feedback as such, that I’ve often been a bit too cynical about the vintage at hand, or the market conditions that challenge the primeur campaign. Perhaps I’m just trying to make sure producers share our stress and reduce their prices. It’s also a tough position to be in–we’re dropped into the middle of the action for a brief week, being pulled in many directions. Avoiding the stress of it is like landing in the middle of a storm and trying to ignore the wind. But today, we’re starting to slow down, and perhaps it is time to focus on some of the bright spots from the last few days.
Read MoreYesterday was a day of exploring Bordeaux, discovering a vintage, tasting First Growths (and wines that rivaled them), and spending time with friends new and old. All in all, it was a great day to be part of the people, wines, and region of Bordeaux. Unfortunately, it has become clear that it will take a bit more than a day to figure out this sometimes confounding, sometimes profound, and very unique vintage that’s about to shape the market. Conclusions for these wines will come in a matter of days, weeks, and years, but I’ll not be able to draw anything today.
Read MoreI have long believed that the Santa Cruz Mountains are a truly special place to grow grapes. This rugged coastal range forced up by the collision of two tectonic plates has an incredible bounty of complex soils. It’s a geological kaleidoscope of ancient uplifted seabed, volcanic deposits, and metamorphic rock bent and twisted by the immense pressures below. All of this is churned up by the San Andreas fault and weathered down by several millennia of coastal storms.
Read MoreRutherglen is a wine and region of its own. For those who are not familiar, Rutherglen is a classic, legacy Australian wine. Since the 19th century, a small group of determined producers has been making this fortified dessert wine in the harsh, continental climate of North Central Victoria. Everything you want in a wine region is here: a unique and distinctive style, generational winemaking, and an honest, incredibly tenacious community of winemakers determined to show the world the beauty that they craft. Take one look at Rutherglen winemaker Steve Chambers’ hands, and they’ll tell you everything you need to know about the fortitude and hands-on work of this incredible wine region.
Read MoreThe first stop on my wine tour across Victoria was the Yarra Valley, located just an hour outside of Melbourne. The Yarra is a picturesque region where the suburban outskirts of the city give way to rolling green hills dotted with sheep and cattle. Creeks and rivers meander across the landscape, collared by eucalyptus and underbrush. The landscape features a blend of rural communities and opulent country estates with the occasional quaint, main-street towns that serve as centers for the winemaking communities.
Read MoreThis past May I had the chance to drive all the way up to the very top of Champagne to the village of Cormicy. I was there to visit Christophe Boulard at Champagne Boulard-Baquaire, and it had been too long since I had seen him and visited the winery. Now, his wines have just come back in stock, and I would like to share their story with you.
Read MoreNothing beats a tasting at the dining room table of a great grower, especially when that grower is Jean-Baptiste Jacquesson and the dining room looks out onto the vineyards of Troissy in the Marne Valley.
Read MoreOnce again, the dynamic duo of Ryan Woodhouse and Jorge Valencia treated the San Francisco team to a fantastic wine van journey. This time we embarked to the Santa Cruz Mountains and the awe-inspiring beauty, terrain (We experienced some of the steepest vineyards ever, akin to the Mosel!!), and talented winemakers we met along the way. What a beauty of a day!
Read MoreLast week I had the chance to visit one of the most hallowed pieces of ground in the Champagne region, the great Clos Saint Hilaire in Mareuil, at the center of the Billecart-Salmon property there. This vineyard, entirely planted to an old massal selection of Pinot Noir in 1964, makes one of the most profound Blanc de Noirs in the whole appellation. Over the last few years, the Billecart family has put in a huge effort to improve the vineyard, by adding hundreds of different plants along the border of wall, creating bird houses, insect hotels, two small ponds for frogs, and even adding beehives. This new biodynamic approach will encourage ladybugs to eat aphids, birds to eat caterpillars, and, in the end, a healthier vineyard. It is an amazing project to see.
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