My Favorite Rebel: The Unforgettable Wines of Natalino Crognaletti
Every wine buyer has a handful of producers that are more than just names in a portfolio. They are benchmarks, inspirations, and personal favorites. For me, one of those producers has always been Fattoria San Lorenzo. To put it simply, these are some of the most soulful and alive wines being made in Italy today, and they come from the heart and hands of a true force of nature: Natalino Crognaletti.
Natalino is the wild, brilliant, and deeply intuitive farmer behind San Lorenzo. Based in the rolling clay-and-limestone hills of the Castelli di Jesi in the Marche, he is a man who seems to belong more to the earth than to the modern world. He is a biodynamic farmer, but not by certification or trend; he works this way because it’s the only way that makes sense. He’s guided by the rhythms of the moon and a profound connection to his land.
His wines are a direct reflection of his philosophy. They are not sterile or overly polished. They are unfiltered, fermented with native yeasts, and aged for long periods on their lees in concrete tanks. They can be wild in their youth, but they possess a textural depth, a saline energy, and an incredible capacity to age that sets them apart. These are not just beverages; they are living things, and they are unforgettable.
New Arrivals from the Lord of Verdicchio
The Verdicchios
2024 San Lorenzo "Vigna di Gino" Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico $14.99 Named for Natalino’s father, Gino, this is the freshest expression of the estate, but it’s far from simple. It carries the signature San Lorenzo texture, with vibrant notes of green almond, citrus pith, and a sharp, saline kick on the finish. It’s a stunning introduction to the house style and one of the best value whites we carry.
2023 San Lorenzo "Le Oche" Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico $19.99 A benchmark for the entire region. "Le Oche" is a single-vineyard bottling known for its incredible depth and complexity. Richer and more powerful than the Gino, it offers layers of ripe stone fruit, hazelnut, and an intense, stony minerality. This is a profound white wine that will age effortlessly for a decade or more.
The Rossos
2023 San Lorenzo "Vigna di Gino" Marche Rosso $14.99 The red counterpart to the Gino Verdicchio, this is a rustic and soulful blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese. It’s full of savory dark cherry, wild herbs, and earthy notes, all framed by honest, grainy tannins. This is the kind of authentic, delicious red wine you want on your table every night.
2018 San Lorenzo "Solleone" Marche Rosso $29.99 The estate’s top red, "Solleone" ("Scorching Sun") is a powerful and structured wine built for the long haul. The 2018 is just beginning to enter its drinking window, showing complex notes of dried plum, leather, tobacco, and that classic Marche earthiness. It’s a deep, contemplative red that showcases Natalino’s incredible talent with red grapes as well.
Why I Love These Wines
There is an honesty to Natalino Crognaletti’s wines that is increasingly rare. They are not made to please critics or fit a certain mold. They are a direct transmission from the soil, through the vines, and from his hands to the bottle. If you’re looking for wines that are truly alive, that have something to say, and that will stick with you long after the bottle is empty, look no further. This is the real deal.
- Orazio Campoli, K&L Italian Wine Buyer