Dao Is the "Burgundy of Portugal"

The home of the best cheese from Portugal is also the source of some of their finest wines. Dão is one of the most unique regions in the country. It is essentially an isolated bowl located in the center north of Portugal. It is surrounded by mountains, which protect it not only from coastal influence but also from the sweltering heat of the middle of the Iberian Peninsula. This is a place apart from the rest of the winemaking regions of the country. While most vineyards are not planted on the slopes of the surrounding mountains, the region has an alpine feel. Here the smaller vineyard holdings are surrounded by forests. It is not uncommon to find giant granite boulders strewn across the landscape—it has an untamed feel to it. The wines from the region have been called the Burgundies of Portugal. While I do not know if that fits, the wines do feel brighter, more aromatic, and more restrained—especially when compared to the bold, sun-drenched wines from the rest of the country.

The “Dão-ness” of the wine stems from the complexity of the varietals; historically there were more than 50 unique varietals found in the region—some of which can still be found in old field blends though the focus is on a handful of those. Some of the more common are Jaen, Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional, and Trincadeira, all of which are aromatically complex, tend towards medium bodied, and all maintain their acidity. Add to that the poor soils—mostly schist and granite—and the long growing season, and you have optimal conditions for complex wines. At their best the red wines can more than rival the complexity of great Burgundy, but on the palate, they tend to be bigger, more Rhône like but with freshness. One paragraph is not  enough to stoke your curiosity, but hopefully it is a spark that will do that, especially if it is combined with the wines below. And to circle back to the beginning, that cheese is the Serra da Estrela; when perfectly matured I cannot think of a better cheese.

2019 Casa da Passarella "Vinhas Velhas" Tinto Dão $39.99 We only have a small amount of this wine, this is a field blend of more than 20 different varietals from some of their oldest vines, more than 90 years old. He we see the traditional Baga, Touriga Nacional, Alvarelhão, Jaen, Alfrocheiro, Encruzado, Malvasia and then many more less familiar names. It is a mix of red and white varietals which were all co-fermented with native yeast. After fermentation it was aged for 18 months in European oak. For lack of a better way to describe this, this is “Grand Cru” Dão. This takes the elegance and complexity that the region is known for and adds more depth and persistence.   This is a wine that will benefit from a few years in the cellar or a long decanting. 

2020 M.O.B. "Lote 3" Tinto Dao $17.99 This winery is the ultimate endorsement for the region. M.O.B. is a project started by three winemaking friends; Jorge Moreira, Francisco Olazabal, and Jorge Serôdio Borges. Now these names might not be familiar to us in the US but they are all winemakers, some of the most important winemakers in the Douro Valley. When these longtime friends decided they wanted to start a project with each other, they did not pick their home region, they chose Dão! I love this, it also makes sense the harvests are typically separated by a month making this a viable project that doesn’t require more time in a car than necessary! Now to touch back to Burgundy, this is a lighter fresher expression from the region, not as light as a Burgundy but a lower alcohol Willamette Pinot is fair. Except it is here where those local varietals shine, a mixture of red and dark fruits, backed by florals, herbs and spices. There is an untamed quality to it, but it is not wild or sauvage, everything is clean and pure. It is medium bodied with fine tannins and good length. It comes across as a little bit of this or that from more famous regions, but it is Dão and could be the best introduction in the store.

2022 M.O.B. "Lote 3" Branco Dao $17.99 Here instead of M.O.B. standing for the initials of the winemakers it should stand for Move Over Burgundy! This is a blend of Encruzado, Bical, and Malvasia; it is fermented in a mixture of stainless-steel tanks and used barrels. It is then aged for about 8 months in the same vessels. For such a humbly priced wine it delivers an experience that rivals many White Burgundies at more than twice the price. The aromatics are cool and complex, here the yellow orchard fruits are backed with a subtle floral and lees components and seem to be focused with an intense minerality. Medium bodied, balanced and energetic. The wine dances on palate, fresh but not tart with all the aromas present and intensified. This is not quite White Burgundy, nor should it be. This is Dão, the minerality is granitic and the fruit tones a touch riper, but this has the same functionality as the more famous region. It has way more flavor and intensity, these wines are the perfect introduction to the region and just delicious to drink.

2022 Casa de Mouraz Encruzado Dao $24.99 The varietal from the Dão that has garnered most attention in the wine broader Wine world, critics and winemakers alike, is Encruzado. The varietal that has the potential to make the most Burgundian wines, for right or wrong that is the region which the world judges' wines against, and time and time again Encruzado rises and exceeds the challenge. Casa de Mouraz is a small project that started like so many other projects in the last decade with people moving from the big city looking to reconnect to their heritage, reconnect with nature, and the Dão is a perfect place for that. They brought with them the desire to make as clean as wine as possible, they farm organically and biodynamically and make their wine with as little intervention as possible.  The wines from Mouraz are bright and pure. Here the aromatics are a little subdued, the yellow fruits are accented with a fine dusty minerality and a faded floral note. It is on the palate where this wine truly shines, here it is medium/medium light bodied, but it has an effortlessly elegant texture that speaks of wines that are much fuller. Encruzado transmits the stony minerality of the region, this has a very long, fresh and stony finish. Think of this like Portuguese Chablis.

- Kirk Walker, K&L Spanish and Portuguese Wine Buyer