Around the World at the Table with Rosé

Many years ago, I was at a tasting with famed wine importer Kermit Lynch, and he lamented the fact that so many restaurants and retailers push rosé off wine lists and shelves shortly after Labor Day. This makes no sense at all, he said, considering that rosé is perhaps one of the most versatile wines to pair with food. Why do we reach for Chablis and Riesling all year round but consider rosé as nothing more than a warm weather sipper? The inherent qualities of rosé—fresh acidity, good palate weight, and the combination of fruit, floral and savory aroma—make it a wine that pairs with everything from oysters to roast poultry.

To be fair, I think the tide has been turning in recent years, but rosé still has a bit of an image problem: it’s wildly popular during the summer, but many have not yet discovered its potential as a serious pairing for a wide range of foods, just as Kermit described. And what better holiday than Thanksgiving to explore rosé as an option? With so many flavors on the table, and unexpected side dishes brought by guests, rosé is the perfect wine to have on hand. These are some of my picks:

Of course, I’m going to focus on still rosé, but I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention two standout sparkling wines to start the day. One of my absolute favorites, just recently restocked on the shelves, is the Jansz "Premium Rosé" Brut Tasmania $21.99 93DC. It’s one of Australia’s most popular rosé sparkling wines, and with good reason. Based mainly on Pinot Noir, it’s incredibly fresh and snappy, with incredible fruit purity coming from the cool climate of Tasmania. Also, of course, a perennial favorite is the Mas Codina Brut Rosé Cava Penedès $14.99, which is absolutely one of the best sparkling values we have. It’s very dry and quite yeasty from the 24 months aging. Either of these would be a great way to welcome guests, or perhaps as a reward for anyone bold enough to conquer an early morning Turkey Trot.

To pair with the appetizers, or watching football on the couch, the 2024 Tahbilk Grenache-Mourvèdre Rosé Nagambie Lakes Victoria $16.99 94JH is a great choice. Very Provencal inspired—both in the varieties used and the resulting flavors—this rosé is fresh, bone dry and would be a great match for a cheese board, shrimp cocktail or smoked salmon. Our two rosés from New Zealand—2023 Mount Edward Pinot Noir Rosé Central Otago $17.99 and the 2023 TWR (Te Whare Ra) "SV5182 Single Vineyard" Rosé Marlborough $17.99 95BC 94SK—are likewise excellent wines to start the meal, with an almost electric sense of acidity that easily balance out any richer dishes.

When the star of the show arrives—obviously the turkey—a more savory style of rosé is the perfect pairing. One of my favorite finds of the year is the 2020 José Luis Ripa Rioja Rosado $34.99 94JS. Made by the husband of Maria José Lopez de Heredia, it’s made in a similar oak-aged style to her family’s famous (and increasingly rare) rosado. With several years aging in barrel, the wine is pale salmon in color, verging on light amber, and is incredibly savory and nutty. Also from Rioja, the 2024 Sierra de Toloño Rosado Rioja $21.99 is a fresher style, darker in color, but also with fantastic palate weight and a slight grip on the palate. Lastly, another option is the 2024 Swinney Mourvedre Rosé Frankland River $39.99 94JH 94WA from Western Australia, which gives Domaine Tempier serious competition with its growing cultlike following. A deceptive pale pink color belies its highly concentrated flavors of dried herbs and stony minerals.

While not exactly rosé wines, another group of wines to consider are those made from the País grape. Also known as Criolla in Argentina, Mission in California, and Listán Prieto in Spain, the grape is typically pale red in the glass and benefits from chilling. With bright cherry and orange peel notes, the 2022 Laberinto "Arcillas" Pais Maule Valley $21.99 95TA 93DS 93JS is an obvious choice to complement cranberry sauce. The 2024 Matias Riccitelli "Kung Fu" Criolla Chacayes $27.99 from high-altitude vineyards in Argentina has grippy tannins and peppery undertones that would be fantastic with sweet potatoes or caramelized Brussels sprouts. Made from Criolla as well as Cereza, the 2023 Cara Sur "Pergolas" Criollas Tintas San Juan $17.99, like the others, has surprising tension and texture on the palate that makes it a great counterbalance to the rich stuffing and buttery green beans.

- Rachael Ryan, K&L Southern Hemisphere, Spain, and Portugal Buyer