K&L’s co-founder/co-owner Clyde Beffa Jr. shares his tips for building your collection bottle by bottle.
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Last week was the eagerly anticipated, 28th annual Premiere Napa Valley (PNV), a celebration of the best wines of our beloved Northern California valley. It’s one of the most vibrant weeks in the Napa Valley calendar year, particularly for those with a penchant for collectibles. As one may expect from the name, the event bears some similarities to Bordeaux's En Primeur (EP), but also some distinct differences, not just in the terminology of 'Primeur' versus 'Premiere.'
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In July of 2022 I moved with my family to Napa Valley. Despite the Bay Bridge commute testing me at times, the move has been incredible for getting to know the U.S.’s most iconic wine region much more intimately. Observing from afar, it’s easy to lump all of Napa Valley together as an adult “Disneyland” of homogenous, over-priced, over-hyped wines with little sense of place. However, when you get to spend lots of time here—the more you explore, the more back roads you turn down, the more vineyards you walk—it becomes increasingly clear that despite the commercial success and sometimes inflated price points, Napa Valley is undeniably a phenomenal, distinctive, and radically diverse place to grow grapes.
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In 1989 Sylvain Langoureau took over the reins of his family winery, becoming the fifth generation to tend the nine-hectare domaine located in the small hamlet of Gamay on the hillside where Puligny-Montrachet and St. Aubin meet... These are easily some of the greatest values we carry in white Burgundy at K&L.
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Vintage Report for Bordeaux’s 2020s: A particularly early growing season was characterized by heatwaves and drought. Some mildew pressure June to mid-August in northern Médoc. Merlot was picked in ideal conditions in early September, but then the weather turned cool and particularly damp so some Cabernet Sauvignon had to be picked before perfect ripeness. Small grapes meant lots of tannin and a relatively small crop.
As I said in the report I published upon my return from the En Primeur campaign, some great wines were produced in 2020, and some good wines were produced. 2020 is a fine vintage in general even though it was anything but normal.
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Clyde Beffa Jr. is a legend around these parts. Co-owner, co-founder, K&L visionary, and Bordeaux cheerleader. He and childhood friend Todd Zucker started K&L 48 years ago, and today we’re all living the K&L dream because of him. He’s been traveling to Bordeaux every year for 40+ years, and he knows everyone! He hosts numerous events to bring the winemakers to us in California. Clyde’s ethos is that Bordeaux can be an everyday wine; you just have to know where to look. He finds perfectly aged bottles from vintages overlooked by critics, and we get to reap the rewards—by which I mean drinking great aged Bordeaux at affordable prices.
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Kirk Walker is our Spain, Portugal, and South America Buyer—if it has a Latin flair, Kirk likely brought it to our shelves. He loves research, and he’s a great person to talk to if you want to know how, for instance, the Andes’ rain shadow affects the vines in Chile. He’s also a good person to talk to in order to understand what’s going on with sparkling wine in Spain, the new wave of dry wines in Portugal, and for all your Rioja needs (I think it’s safe to say we all have Rioja needs). If you want to talk about the context of a wine region while drinking great wine, Kirk’s your man!
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Vigneron Rudi des Pins is at the helm of Château de Montfaucon, an estate in Southern Rhône that represents one of the longest-running partners we’ve had in our Direct Import program. Long ago, when directly importing wines was just a twinkle in co-owner Clyde Beffa’s eye, he met Rudi and tasted his wonderful wines; the rest is history. The wines of Montfaucon are fan favorites year after year.
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For many years, Ventoux was associated with thin, lackluster table wines. Yet in recent decades the potential for excellence has been tapped by skilled winemakers, and you now can find some exceptionally good wines from Ventoux on our shelves. The massive slopes of Mont Ventoux, famous for chewing up riders during the Tour de France, dominates the region of vines to the southwest, creating a natural amphitheater that allows for cooler nights and a longer growing season. And no one understands this climate differential more than Sebastien Vincenti, the inspired owner of Domaine de Fondrèche, whose balanced, flavorful range of appreciably affordable wines are stunning stars in our Southern Rhône portfolio.
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There’s no wine that is more closely aligned to Australia than Barossa Shiraz. And you’ll find it here in every style, shape, and form. From inexpensive, tasty bottles to world-class collectibles, Barossa runs the entire spectrum. And while there are plenty of tourist trap cellar doors, there are also plenty of spectacular, well-run tasting rooms where any serious wine lover would feel at home. The best of these was the Artisans of Barossa.
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This June, I got to experience the incredible diversity and quality of Australian wine firsthand. Spending two weeks in Australia, I managed to visit with 80 producers across Victoria and South Australia, tasting hundreds of wines and meeting the incredible people who craft them. Many of these producers have all the drive, attention to detail, and raw talent that you’d find anywhere in Burgundy, Napa, or Piedmont. So why does Australian wine make up less than 1% of the wines that we sell here at K&L?
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Earlier this week, the K&L Champagne team kicked off our annual staff summit with a dinner hosted by Billecart-Salmon. It has become a welcome tradition to start off our yearly survey of all the grande marque producers with a sushi dinner at my place featuring the wines of this great house. Christian Esser, who just returned from a visit to Billecart, and Eric Lecours presented the wines and treated Scott Beckerley, Michael Benoit, Philip Roufail, Will Langhi, Cinnamon and me to a great spread from Kanpai sushi in Palo Alto.
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