News from Thierry Thibault

Last week, we visited Bouilly, deep in the countryside of Champagne—north of the Marne, south of Brouillet, and west of the Mountain of Reims. After 20 years of doing this job, I am continually amazed by how much of Champagne there is still left to discover. We came to this tiny village to visit Mr. Thierry Thibault, one of the true “cult” producers that we are lucky enough to import at K&L.

We were treated to some excellent clafoutis as an afternoon treat with his wife and twin daughters and also to a taste of some of his excellent Champagne. It was a fine moment with Champagne royalty—Thierry is the son of former Charles Heidsieck chef de cave Daniel Thibault and works 4 hectares of family vineyard. He told us that he is now in conversion to organic viticulture and will have his first certified harvest in 2021. His goal is not to change the style of his wine, but rather to make better working conditions for himself and his small team. Currently, he sells 90% of his grapes to Charles Heidsieck, leaving precious few for his own production.

He also has a single-vineyard, pure-Meunier cuvée in the works from a plot called “Le Croix St-Remy” in Verneuil, but it, and his next batch of highly sought-after extra age, will not be available until next year. They have been planting trees to attract birds here to prey on insects—a much more beautiful alternative to insecticides. I can’t wait to try it. This vineyard is less than an acre, so there will not be much. Stay tuned for more information on that.

Every year, we only get one shot of Thierry Thibault’s excellent Champagne. Last year, I wasn’t fast enough and didn’t get any for my own cellar. I won’t make that mistake again this year. Our allocation will be arriving sometime between mid-summer and early fall, and I suggest that everyone who wants some sign up now on the waiting list here. The Champagne that is coming is a blend of 40% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, and 30% Meunier and benefits from 40% of reserve wines. His style is very refined, with delicate dark kirsch flavors and subtle baguette toast. Like his father, he believes in ageing on the cork as well as on the lees, and the wine always has perfect texture, tiny bubbles and a long, dry finish. You won’t find another Champagne quite like it at the fair price that it is offered at. I promise it will be worth waiting for.

A toast to you!

- Gary Westby