Tahbilk: A “First Family” of Australian Wine

Wines in Australia are treated a little differently than they are here in the U.S. Granted, the majority of wines being produced in Australia today are New World in style, with fruit-forward flavors and quality that ranges from everyday table wines to utterly profound collectibles. But Australians have their own lingo and their own traditions that don’t always translate to the U.S. Take for instance the Jimmy Watson Trophy, an award so prestigious that its winner each year unfailingly enjoys an overnight cross-country sellout. But here in the U.S., the award is essentially meaningless. There is another little-known feature of Australian wine that I think deserves attention and recognition in the U.S.: the First Families of Australian Wine.

The First Families is a group of Australia’s most exceptional family-owned wine producers. They are the country’s national heritage of wine. Their wines have an established pedigree: they are classics that demonstrate what the best Australian winemaking looks like across a range of styles and prices. There are only 12 wineries in this prestigious group, and it’s easy to see why. All members must be multi-generational, family-owned, with ownership of at least one vineyard that is 50 years old or more, and must have a 20-year history of producing a landmark, iconic wine. Think of “Henschke’s Hill of Grace” or Jim Barry’s “Armagh.” The group is so restrictive that even Australia's most well-known producer, Penfold’s, doesn’t meet the requirements. These 12 represent the best in Australian wine, and include producers like Henschke, Yalumba, and D’Arenberg.

This brings me to exciting news for K&L customers: One of Australia’s First Families, Tahbilk, is now part of our Direct Imports program. Tahbilk has been crafting distinctive and amazing wines from the Nagambie Lakes Region since its founding in 1860. From its iconic Tahbilk Tower to sending orders to Queen Victoria in the 1870s, Tahbilk’s rich history was ushered into the modern era when purchased by the Purbrick family in 1931, who have owned it ever since. Named Winery of the Year in 2016 and given the highest rating possible by Australian wine critic James Halliday, these wines are produced with incredible attention to detail and show stunning value. We are thrilled to be the exclusive carrier of these wines for the whole U.S.

But what is most exciting about having Tahbilk as a member of our Direct Imports program is the value for customers. By importing these wines ourselves, we are able to sell them at remarkably lower prices than you would see anywhere else, making one of the best values in Australian wine even better. This year, we’ve imported four wines from this 160 year-old producer that we think show exceptional quality and value, and I’m excited to share them with you here:

Fermented in 150-year-old open-top fermenters and aged in a mix of French and American Oak, the 2017 Tahbilk Cabernet Sauvignon Nagambie Lakes Victoria ($14.99) is produced from entirely estate-grown fruit. With notes of eucalyptus, graphite, and blackberry on the nose, the palate follows up with black cassis, cherry, and anise. With plenty of weight, this is a richly textured and velvety wine that is a hell of a lot of Cabernet for $15. It almost melts on the palate.

As for white wine, it might seem odd that Tahbilk’s most recognizable wine is made from an obscure grape from the Northern Rhône that is typically grown on the opposite side of the planet. But surprisingly, Tahbilk is actually the largest producer of Marsanne in the world. Throughout their history they have mastered Marsanne, and the 2019 Tahbilk Marsanne Nagambie Lakes Victoria ($12.99) is an incredibly pleasant surprise. Lemon and peach blossom on the nose with a touch of melon in the background. Beautifully crisp and refreshing on the palate. A touch of orange zest of the palate, this is simply delicious and distinctive. A totally unique wine that is perfect for a weeknight dinner. Bravo!

Tahbilk also has a take on a more traditional Australian offering with their 2017 Tahbilk Shiraz Nagambie Lakes Victoria ($14.99). With a nose filled with eucalyptus, blueberries, and black plum, the most striking quality here is the medium body, with a bright snap of acidity. On the palate, there are classic Shiraz flavors of meat and black pepper. At 13.5% abv, this is far from the sweet and cloying Shiraz that you find across shelves in your local grocery store.

I was lucky enough to try the 2013 Tahbilk "1927" Vines Marsanne Nagambie Lakes Victoria ($24.99) during a seminar led by Wine Front founder Mike Bennie last year. This wine stopped me dead in my tracks. In fact, this wine was the very reason I wanted to bring these wines back to the U.S. Holy smokes this wine is stunning. Just like I remember it. Soaring aromatics of candied lemon peel, elderflower blossom, and ripe white cherry. It bears a resemblance to aged Semillon, but without the ripping acid, making it balanced and beautiful. This is a ridiculous wine that I’m totally in love with. I should have imported twice what we have. 

I hope you get the chance to try some of these fantastic values from Tahbilk. They are a reminder of what honest, family-owned wineries can accomplish after nearly a century of wine production.

- Thomas Smith