Tonic for the Jaded Palate

I have been a committed note taker on wines for 25 years, and love having a record to look back on of the all the experiences I have been so lucky to have. I always have two wine notebooks going; one professional and one personal. The professional I use in the moment that I am tasting, and it is as much for collecting facts from the person presenting the wine (grape varieties, winemaking methods, soil types) as it is for collecting my own impressions. The personal I almost always write in the next day and has the benefit of a little perspective as I usually have had more than one taste of the wine and some time to think about it.

Last night, Cinnamon and I were at a loss for words over the greatness of the 2019 Domaines Ott "Château de Selle" Côtes de Provence Rosé. This morning I woke up still thinking about it, wondering what it was that made it so special, and ran to my notebook to reflect and write. Perhaps, like a cat’s purr, I should be satisfied with its mysterious pleasure, but as a wine pro it is hard to let my lack of understanding go… So after writing my personal note I felt compelled to research the wine. Luckily, Ott’s importer, MMDUSA, has a great fact-filled website. The Château de Selle has 160 planted acres, on soil that is more than 50 percent rock. It is located the furthest inland of the Domaines Ott, tucked into the limestone hillsides. The 2019 is composed of 56% Grenache, 25% Cinsault, 11% Syrah, and 8% Mourvedre. It’s available in 375ml, 750ml, and 1.5L magnums.

This wine is the absolute opposite of the “blockbuster” style that the critics have made ubiquitous and is nuanced instead of monolithic and delicate instead of powerful. I asked my wife last night “what kind of fruit is that?” We couldn’t put a finger on it. But we kept coming back, and it was gone in a hurry, like a 375ml instead of the 750 it was… As we like to say “a small bottle.” This light-colored, light-bodied rosé is the best of its kind I have had in at least a decade, maybe more. The finish was a standout, deep, fresh, and salty like the Mediterranean sea. We had paired it with lamb and lentils wrapped in lettuce, and although the wine was among the lightest we have drunk this year, it went very well with the food and was never overpowered.

I can’t get this wine out of my head. If you are looking for something subtle, delicate, and truly special for a summer treat, I can’t recommend it highly enough.

- Gary Westby