Krug x Onions
Every year, Champagne Krug selects an ingredient to pair with their wines and takes a group of top chefs with them to an exotic destination to discover the possibilities. I think it is also a great occasion for the home cook and Champagne lover to discover a new pairing. This year the ingredient is the onion—and I have to admit to already being a convert to this combination—it is a great partner to Krug! Years ago, my wife Cinnamon made a mushroom and onion tart to serve with Grande Cuvée during the aperitif and it was such a winner, that I requested it again to celebrate the newly named ingredient. Mentioning the word Krug to my wife works magic, and she did not hesitate to volunteer. This time she passed on the mushrooms and instead made a gorgeous tarte à l'oignon that included leeks and shallot as well as a little Beurre Bordier butter from Brittany. I am a lucky man—all I had to do was open a bottle of Krug "Grande Cuvée" 168 ème Édition Brut Champagne and enjoy!
The 168th edition of Krug is composed of 52% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, and 13% Meunier and spans 11 vintages from 1996 to 2012. Our bottle was Krug ID 319031, and disgorged back in the summer of 2019, but just arrived from France. With more than 18 months of ageing on the cork, seven years of ageing on the lees, and reserves going back 25 years, this wine is released ready to drink, and was singing—especially with the food. I found the wine to have a surprising amount of white flowers and bright minerality and perhaps would have guessed that it had even more Chardonnay in the blend. That fresh cut and drive worked well with the flaky, buttery, savory tart, and, like any great pairing, each half elevated the other. This Grande Cuvée is very easy to drink, but has a lot of depth underneath if you let it warm in the glass a little and pay attention to it. The savory pear and clean earth from long-aged Meunier is very subtle in this blend, but adds a bass note to the wine that is undeniable. The powerful Pinot Noir from the best sites in the region isn’t flashy, but reveals itself on the super-long finish.
I know that I am like a broken record when it comes to Krug Grande Cuvée, but I believe it to be the most affordable of all the great, blue chip wines of the world. I have never been at a wine dinner when it didn’t show with the best of the best of Burgundy, Bordeaux, or anything from anywhere. It is not inexpensive—but it is a great value. If it has been a while for you, make your favorite onion dish and treat yourself. You won’t be disappointed.
A toast to you!
-Gary Westby