Vintage Billecart and Sushi Night at the Westbys

Last night, Cinnamon and I treated ourselves to some sushi from the recently reopened Kanpai in Palo Alto and paired it with the magnificent 2007 Billecart-Salmon "Cuvée Louis" Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne. I had opened it to make a little video presenting the wine, and we enjoyed the rest paired with the great variety that a sushi dinner has to offer. This over-200-year-old house continues to push and strive for ever more quality, and this all-Chardonnay tête-de-cuvée is proof of that.

The wine is sourced only from Billecart’s best sites in just three grand cru villages in the Côtes-des-Blancs, Chouilly, Cramant, and Mesnil. This selection ensures the great longevity (this 2007 is current release at 14 years old!) as well as fabulous chalky minerality. To bring some extra flesh to the wine, half of the fruit is fermented in mostly large oak barrels, and while I could not taste the oak, the subtly creamy texture was there to feel. Even after more than 10 years on the lees, this wine is star bright and fresh, thanks to the tense style of the cool 2007 vintage.

The sushi brought out the best in this wine, and, as it warmed, I picked up a hint of Meursault-like butter that complement the wine’s Meyer lemon zip. I found it went especially well with the toro, and, like the best wine, was a second knife for this rich fish. It shined the brightest as an all-rounder, pairing with gyoza, spicy tuna, and avocado rolls. This is a special bottle of Champagne, and I hope that you will have the opportunity to try it as well!

A toast to you!

- Gary Westby, Champagne Buyer