Derot-Delugny: The Best Deal in 2012 Vintage Champagne
This past May, I traveled to the far west of Champagne, to the lovely, tiny village of Crouttes-sur-Marne, to visit brother-and-sister team Laurent and Claire at Champagne Derot-Delugny. They are one of the oldest grower producers in the western Marne Valley, having sold Champagne in bottle since 1929. This long tradition has given them the gift of patience and the ability to sell vintage Champagne at 10 years old, the 2012 that is the main subject of this article.
The 2012 Dérot-Delugny Millesime Brut Champagne ($34.99) is composed of half each Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from older vines on the property. This wine was treated to extra-long elevage in tank—14 months in fact—before bottling. This is an unusual move in Champagne, where most everything is bottled in the spring after harvest, and has brought some incredible Chassagne-Montrachet-like nuttiness to the wine. After that, it was kept for more than 8 years on the lees before disgorgement. It is dosed at just 7g/l, and finished dry, but the long aging process has made this a rich, not austere, brut.
Originally, this wine was selling for $50, but a great deal from the Derot family and a windfall with the exchange rate allowed us to deeply discount it. I love the still almost-clear color, a great sign for further ageing potential, as well as the gingerbread toast on the nose. In the mouth it is expressive and generous, with both high-toned citrus and deep brioche. The bead is fine and compact, and the finish is fresh and driven. I am planning on having this tonight with pork katsu, but it will also make a great pairing with pâté and smoked fish.
Also of interest is there Dérot-Delugny "Cuvée Fondateurs" Brut $49.99, the only 100% Pinot Gris Champagne we have been lucky enough to carry. This exotic smelling wine has nothing but classic Champagne clarity and cut in the mouth and is a must try for every lover of bubbles. Their Dérot-Delugny Blanc de Noirs Brut ($29.99) is an excellent staple, all Meunier and full of tarte tatin toast and crisp acidity. Don’t miss these wines!
A toast to you!