Don’t Forget Bordeaux's 2023 Vintage: High Quality and Well Priced
Futures work when you can secure wines at pricing and availability that offer meaningful upside by buying early. With the wild ride of inflation over the past few years, the value of futures might feel elusive, but looking back, it remains a compelling system that provides a dynamic that is absent in other regions where pricing only goes in one direction.
The 2023 campaign was particularly fascinating, showcasing a more classic expression than we’ve seen in a long time, along with downward pricing pressure and production that supported broad offerings. It also exists amid several outstanding vintages currently on the market, including the superlative 2019s, the long-term 2020s, and the ripe, resilient 2022s. No other vintage in Bordeaux faces as much competition in terms of quality.
At the heart of it, the qualifying question I always ask regarding futures is: is this the best expression you can find of this property on today’s market at the given release price? The answer is yes for many of them. If these wines were slightly harder to acquire, with more global demand or lower yields, they would be even more essential. While we may not see the exponential upside of the best wines in top vintages, if you’re looking for wines you’ll be pleased to own at the current pricing, 2023 has much to offer.
Here are a few of my favorite, you-can’t-go-wrong 2023s. Leading the way is Brane-Cantenac, a Margaux that has excelled in recent years, and I cannot recommend it enough. It was one of the first wines we tasted En Primeur and has left a lasting impression. From the south, Les Carmes Haut-Brion and Haut-Bailly tell two different stories about the same vintage. Carmes executes their pure, lifted style with ease, while Haut-Brion exemplifies the serious quality of this banner vintage from the estate, benefiting from their new winery.
Next up are three wines that bring pure joy. Canon was a standout we tasted repeatedly during En Primeur, and it never failed to impress. Ducru-Beaucaillou, while only tasted at the estate, garnered consensus acclaim, hitting all the marks for the most luxurious and delicious vintages. La Conseillante, in all honesty, deserves a place in more cellars. Given its frequent acclaim as wine of the vintage, it should be an automatic selection for any campaign. Those who take the leap will not be disappointed.
Returning to Pessac, I cannot recall a vintage where I enjoyed La Mission Haut-Brion in its youth as much as in 2023. The First Growth caliber was apparent, and at under $250, it feels like a steal compared to its peers. Vieux Château Certain continues to impress in modern vintages, and the 2023 once again measures up to some of their best, leaving smiles on all our faces along with a pleasing price point. And while Château Margaux may not need another endorsement, it remains a quintessential First Growth from a solid vintage, offered at the right price.
It'll be interesting to see where these wines settle in the grand scheme, but I see upside in the 2023s—perhaps not as much urgency as with other futures vintages. This is beneficial for buyers who can revisit the wines before they start arriving at our dock later next year. With 2024 looking to be a challenging vintage in the region, the 2023s will likely become even more valuable as time passes. Whether you’ve been a buyer or have been waiting to pull the trigger, the 2023s seem to represent a signature vintage for Bordeaux that is worth revisiting at this stage.
2023 Brane-Cantenac, Margaux $61.99 95-97JD 96DC 96JA 95-96JS 94-96TWI 94-96VN
2023 Léoville-Poyferré, St-Julien $77.99 98JA 95-97JD 95-97VN 96DC
2023 Les Carmes Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan $114.99 98-99JS 97-99WA 96-98TWI 97DC 95-97JD 96JA 94-96VN
2023 Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan $119.99 97-98JS 96-98TWI 96-98VN 97JA 95-97JD 96DC
2023 Canon, St-Emilion $124.99 99-100JS 98-100TWI 98DC 96-98WA 96JA 94-96VN
2023 Ducru-Beaucaillou, St-Julien $159.99 97DC 96-97JS 95-97JD 95-97VN 96JA
2023 La Conseillante, Pomerol $199.99 98-100WA 97-99TWI 98DC 97-98JS 96-98VN 97JA
2023 La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan $244.99 96-100JD 97-98TWI 97DC 96JA
2023 Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol $249.99 97-99TWI 98DC 97-98JS 96-98JD 96-98VN 96JA
2023 Margaux, Margaux $509.99 99-100JS 97-100VN 96-100JD 97-99TWI 98DC 98JA 95-97WA