The Rise of Beaujolais
Wow! How things have changed. Beaujolais was once considered the backwater appellation of Burgundy, where the banished Gamay grape was cultivated to make easy-drinking reds of little complexity and depth. But it is definitely not your father’s Beaujolais any longer! Today, there is an array of fantastic producers making cutting edge wines from Gamay—mostly via organic or biodynamic farming practices. The granite soil of Beaujolais is ideal for growing the Gamay grape, and the subtle hillsides and plateaus provide the perfect amount of sun and drainage for great Beaujolais. We have several fantastic wines in stock that are wonderful examples of the quality you can currently find in Beaujolais.
We start off in Fleurie, which is one of the smaller Crus of the 10 Beaujolais appellations. Each Cru appellation has its own unique soil and exposure that contributes to a defined style. Wines from Fleurie are known for having a velvety fruit texture and floral bouquet—and this is exactly the calling card of Clos de la Roilette, arguably the reference point producer for Fleurie. Their entry-level offering, the 2021 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie $19.99 91WA, is a great value with a nose of crushed geranium, pomegranate, and spice that flows seamlessly into an energetic palate of cranberry, pomegranate, herbs, and savory notes. A hint of earth coupled with spice makes this a great example of the more restrained style of Beaujolais’ 2021 vintage.
For a few bucks more, you get the 2021 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie "Cuvée Tardive" $24.99 94WA, which takes what the entry-level offering has but focuses it across a larger-scaled palate. This is a wine that displays gorgeous depth and will age gracefully. Drink the Fleurie while you wait for the “Cuvée Tradive” to gain extra complexity in your cellar over the next few years.
We leave Fleurie for Morgon, which is one of the larger Cru Beaujolais appellations and the most well-known. I love the wines of Morgon; they are typically very straight-forward offerings that offer up deep, pure fruit with impressive complexity. A new producer for us is Jean-Marc Burgaud. I immediately fell in love with his two Morgons upon tasting them. Classically styled, his wines are a bit of a throw-back to old-school winemaking techniques. The 2020 Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud "Côte du Py" Morgon $34.99 95JS 94VN 94WA 91JM has all the critics nodding in agreement. It shows notes of berry fruit, cassis, plum, and spice along with floral notes. What a stunning Morgon from the famed Côte du Py vineyard in Morgon.
One of the most dependable wines year-in-and-year-out from Morgon is the rendition from Domaine Marcel Lapierre. The 2021 Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgon $42.99 94JS 93VN 92BH is the perfect combination of fruit, earth, spice, and minerality. Savory and fruit-driven all at once, this is a spectacular Morgon and a great introduction to the top hierarchy of Beaujolais.
While I love Lapierre, if I have to pick one Morgon to drink it would be Domaine Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py, it literally delivers every time with such amazing fruit purity, precision, and typicity that it’s become one of my favorites. The 2021 Domaine Jean Foillard Morgon "Côte du Py" $44.99 93VN 91BH is a bit more savory and feral than the last few vintages thanks to the wet, cool 2021 weather. The fruit appears in spades and the depth and complexity it shows while simultaneously oozing beautiful fruit notes makes this a great Morgon.