A Visit with Didier Lapie in Champagne
It is great to be back on the road in Champagne, and last week I visited Vaudemange for the very first time in 23 years of visiting the region. Just southeast of the Grand Cru of Ambonnay, this picturesque part of the region is called La Perle Blanche de la Montagne de Reims, or “the white pearl of the mountain of Reims.” Just below it is Champagne Agricole, with plains of wheat, and it is at the crossroads of the Marne and the Montagne.
I came out to visit Didier and Isabelle Lapie of Champagne Didier Lapie, taste their wines, and learn about their terroir. I was greeted not only by them, but their gorgeous long-haired cats—who would have distracted me from lesser wines—they were adorable! Didier and Isabelle have 10 acres of vines spread not only in Vaudemange, but also in Chouilly Grand Cru, Pierry 1er Cru, and in Bassuet to the east.
Didier was the head of the local co-op for the past 20 years and is “Champagne Retired”; now he only tends to his own vines and wines. The vinification is done in stainless steel at the cooperative in Vaudemange, but everything is kept separate in an amazing collection of small tanks. He is a big believer in long aging, and he keeps everything for a minimum of three years on the lees before riddling them in manual giro-palletes, the first that I have seen in the region. He pushes them himself when he wants to do a rotation!
Soon, we will have a range of new wines from him in stock, but right now we have an incredible value, the Didier Lapie Blanc de Noirs Brut Champagne $29.99. This long aged, pure Meunier hails from the cold climate of Pierry, and has had at least five years on the lees. It is sleek, savory, and framed with a sourdough toast aroma of the best of nonvintage Champagne. The special thing for me is the quality of the pearly bead of bubbles and the very fresh, long finish. Meunier is known for its tarte tatin fruit, and this certainly has it, but the clean, zippy back end reminds me much more of a Blanc de Blancs, thanks to the cold climate of this sub region. At this price, it shouldn’t be missed!
A toast to you!