Nicolas Maillart: The Cutting Edge of Champagne’s 1er Cru
There is no doubt that Nicolas Maillart is among the elite of Champagne’s grower producers, and we have been very lucky to work with him and his wines over the last four years. He is located on the Montagne de Reims, in the village of Écueil, almost equal distance between Reims and Epernay. His main vineyards are here in this picturesque 1er cru, but he also has vines in Villers-Allerand next door and Bouzy grand cru. He has been working organically towards certification and, in the winery, prefers to barrel ferment most of his lots. Tasting vin clair with him is always a treat and each barrel sample always seems to be better than the last, even though the baseline starts high!
The Nicolas Maillart "Platine" Brut Champagne ($34.99) is a blend of 67% Pinot Noir, 26% Chardonnay, and 7% Meunier, and, like all of his wines, is exclusively from his own estate. It is 70% barrel fermented with the balance done in tank and is aged for over four years on the lees. The current batch is based on 2016 but benefits from a generous amount of reserve wines. I had this at home last week with Cinnamon’s miso-glazed salmon, and it was a great pairing, showing off this wine’s incredible depth and complexity, but also its moreish ease of drinking. We then poured it in all our locations last Saturday for our customer tasting to rave reviews. I love the combination of almost Volnay-like intrigue and savor that is married to clean chalky minerality carried off by great freshness and acidity. This wine is only dosed at 3.5 g/l and is an Extra Brut, but he only labels it as such on the back, because the ripeness of the grapes, the barrel fermentation, and the long aging on the lees make it drink much more like a regular Brut. We are going to drink a lot of this at home over the spring and summer!
From his plots in Bouzy, the Nicolas Maillart Grand Cru Brut Rosé Champagne ($49.99) is a blend of half and half Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, getting its color from some old-vine Bouzy Rouge and dosed at an incredibly low 1.1 g/l. The current batch is based on 2018, and the prodigious ripeness of that harvest has called for a super low dosage as well as higher acid reserves to brighten the wine. He makes this to be fresh and easy to drink, he says; and he has succeeded. But wow, the depth of this wine cannot be held in check! The subtle Rainer cherry and fresh bread aromas lead to a clean mid palate with a fine bead and savory, Vosne-like intrigue on the long chalky finish. This is special rosé at an inflation-busting price.
The 2018 Nicolas Maillart "Montchenot" Champagne ($49.99) is exclusively Pinot Noir from Villers-Allerand 1er cru, entirely barrel fermented and has zero dosage. This vinous Champagne is made for the dinner table, with great dark cherry Pinot power as well as nut bread toast aromas. If you are looking for the perfect partner for your grilled plank salmon, look no further. This is broad, rich Champagne that had no need for additional sugar, and has a back end that is loaded with chalky minerality.
His 2018 Nicolas Maillart "Mont Martin" 1er Cru Blanc de Noirs Champagne ($64.99) is made exclusively from the indigenous-to-Champagne Meunier grape and is entirely barrel fermented. It is a statement on the class that this often-overlooked variety is capable of and comes exclusively from the Mont Martin parcel in Villers-Allerand, where a meter of clay soil lays on top of the chalk. It is dosed at just 2g/l of sugar, and even with that low dosage is among the richest Champagnes I have ever tasted. It has subtle toast and big plummy ripeness on the nose, with full body that is a great contrast to the tight bead of bubbles. This is a fantastic partner for foie gras, or other pâté as the richness of the wine can stand up to the big flavors, while it is dry enough to cut the fat. We only received four cases!
Don’t miss these Champagnes; they are top-class grower wines at great prices.
A toast to you!