Vintage Report for Bordeaux’s 2020s: A particularly early growing season was characterized by heatwaves and drought. Some mildew pressure June to mid-August in northern Médoc. Merlot was picked in ideal conditions in early September, but then the weather turned cool and particularly damp so some Cabernet Sauvignon had to be picked before perfect ripeness. Small grapes meant lots of tannin and a relatively small crop.

As I said in the report I published upon my return from the En Primeur campaign, some great wines were produced in 2020, and some good wines were produced. 2020 is a fine vintage in general even though it was anything but normal. If I had to give the nod to a specific region, I would say the Right Bank and Pessac were a bit better than the Médoc. I would also say the trilogy of 2018, 2019, and 2020 is valid for very good vintages of Bordeaux—though they don’t quite reach the level of 1988, 1989, and 1990. As far as the quantity of the 2020s produced, it is a bigger volume vintage than 2018 or 2019, but still not a huge crop. I would say 2020 Bordeaux reds are right there with 2018 and 2019 and just behind 2016. To me for long term aging in the cellar look to 2016 and 2019. For shorter aging and enjoying sooner, stick with 2018 and 2020. I should say that predicting ageability of Bordeaux is a difficult game for anyone. Most all Bordeaux wine “experts” in the 20th century said not to cellar 2009, 1947, 1953, 1959, 1982, or 1989!!! They were all too easy to drink when young—WELL they are still great to drink now!!!

Leaders of the Pack in Value

2020 Haut-Bergey, Pessac-Léognan $22.99 95 points James Suckling: “A very fine and polished 2020 with tar, blackberry, stone, and wet earth aromas and flavors. Full and reserved with beautiful tannins and a long, long finish. Classy. Extremely well done.”

My notes: Superb value from a property that we started carrying in 1995, just a few years after Sylviane Garcin-Cathiard (sister of Daniel Cathiard of Smith Haut Lafitte fame) and her husband Gaston took over the domain to modernize it and develop the business. Their son Paul now runs the property. Known for making excellent value wines.

2020 Dalem, Fronsac $24.99 92 points Antonio Galloni for Vinous: "The 2020 Dalem is all class. Bright, floral and nuanced, the 2020 offers gorgeous hints of crushed raspberry, mint, blood orange and lavender. This is beautifully done."

My notes: K&L only started carrying this property in the 2018 vintage. I must confess I have never visited this “up-and-coming” Bordeaux value star. This 2020 is a very rich, powerful, spicy wine that could use a few years in your cellar.

2020 Siran, Margaux $39.99 Château Siran is the result of a subtle blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot, which reflects the identity of its terroir. The relatively high percentage of Petit Verdot brings a spicy note that reinforces the unique character of Siran’s wines.

I have had a soft spot in my heart and palate for this overachieving Bordeaux value red since tasting the great wines of the ‘80s at the property with owner and good friend Edouard Miailhe. He happens to be the nephew of May-Eliane Lencquesaing, former owner of Pichon Lalande—my favorite Bordeaux property.

92 points Antonio Galloni for Vinous: "The 2020 Siran is packed with the essence of blackberry jam, mocha, espresso, bittersweet chocolate, licorice, and cloves. This dark, sumptuous Margaux is not at all subtle, but it does pack quite the punch. This is an especially opulent style, to be sure.”

My barrel tasting notes: “These guys have been making great value wines for the past 15 years. Violet aromas with black raspberry undertones. Sweet palate entry and the wine just coats the mouth with sweet fruit. Long, lingering finish. Will drink well early on.” My notes from tasting at Joanne: “Tons of red fruits on palate. Some oaky notes.”

2020 Marquis d'Alesme, Margaux $42.99 96 points Jane Anson: "A don't-miss wine, this has wonderfully powerful fruits delivered with class and character. The abundant tannins have slate-edged grip and the black cassis and bilberry fruits sit alongside waves of oyster shell, licorice, sage, and black pepper. Delivers depth and personality and an effortless Margaux finesse.

My notes: Marjolaine de Coninck, technical director, has done a fabulous job in bringing this property as well as Château Labégorce into the top realm of Bordeaux wines. Great terroir here and now a top team making superb wines.

2020 Malartic-Lagravière, Pessac-Léognan $44.99 95 points Neal Martin in Vinous: "The 2020 Malartic-Lagravière, which represents just 40% of the total production, was cropped at 26hL/ha. It has a very delineated nose with intense blackberry, raspberry, sous-bois, and incense aromas that just ‘sing’ of Pessac-Léognan. The palate is medium-bodied, finely-knit tannins, fresh and vibrant with beguiling purity. Harmonious and silky smooth, it belies the depth and complexity of this marvelous Malartic. This is superb and it will mature beautifully in bottle."

My notes: The Bonnie family has really improved this beautiful property—Véronique and Jean-Jacques Bonnie, now co-owners of the family’s vineyards, have two main priorities: adapting their vineyards to the current climatic, environmental, and social challenges, and transforming this magical place into a living space, open to visitors, and offering an experience that is truly unforgettable.

2020 Bellefont-Belcier, St-Émilion $47.99 98 points Jeb Dunnuck: “The finest wine I've tasted from this estate, the 2020 Château Bellefont-Belcier is an incredibly gorgeous blend of 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep ruby/purple-hued, it offers a great nose of cassis, ripe black cherries, camphor, dried flowers, cedar, and forest floor. Bringing gorgeous richness, it nevertheless stays flawlessly balanced, with ultra-fine tannins and a great finish. The purity of fruit here is just about off the charts.”

My notes: This property has great terroir, and I am sure under the new Kwok ownership (Tour St-Christophe, etc) that this is a property to watch now and in the future. I did love the 2010 Bellefont, and K&L sold almost 1000 bottles of this gem. This 2020 is even better—a must try.

My Barrel tasting notes: “Wow, what a treat here. Raspberry aromas abound. Very feminine and elegant on the palate. Rich, ripe, sweet black fruit flavors. Round tannins, elegant finish. Delicious wine.”

2020 Branaire-Ducru, St-Julien $47.99 95 points Decanter: “An intensely perfumed nose with soft cocoa powder aromas. The texture is alluring, juicy and ripe but lifted, quite dense but also linear, a push-pull of direct fruit and chalky, plump tannins. Rich but not as supple as 2018, a bit more angular. Black cherries, plums, and currants on the palate with both a nice sweetness and salinity. Not so easy to taste and understand today, it's thought provoking with lots going on. Great potential for a long life and one to watch!!”

My notes: One of my favorite properties in Bordeaux. They always make great wines here, and they are fairly priced. I had the pleasure of drinking two bottles of 1928 Branaire-Ducru this year—one of the five best wines I have ever drunk in my 50+ years of wine collecting.

My barrel tasting notes: Tasted from two-week-old sample, and it was still bright and lively. Pretty black cherry aromas. Very elegant on the palate. Plenty of bright acidity and cassis flavors. Quite forward and ripe. Drink it young.

2020 Phélan-Ségur, St-Estèphe $49.99 93 points Antonio Galloni in Vinous: "The 2020 Phélan-Ségur is powerful yet elegant, with so much to offer. There's terrific depth to the 2020, right from the start. Succulent dark cherry, leather, espresso, dried herbs, incense and spice infuse the 2020 with remarkable depth. Even with all of its obvious power, the 2020 has an element of sweetness in the tannin that is so alluring. It will be interesting to see if the 2020 opens a bit more with time in bottle. I suspect it will."

My notes: Under the management of director Véronique Dausse for the past ten years, Phélan-Ségur has burst onto the fine Bordeaux wine scene, and now represents one of the best value reds in Bordeaux.

My barrel tasting notes: Excellent property recently sold by the Gardinier family. Tough to beat their fabulous 2019, but this 2020 comes close. Nice nose and full-bodied on the palate. Plenty of structure for the long haul. Hurray for Véronique Dausse.

2020 d'Issan, Margaux $69.99 94 points, Neal Martin in Vinous: "The 2020 d'Issan is the first vintage with the parcels acquired from Pontac-Lynch, located just outside the Clos d'Issan. It contains a few rows of Malbec whose quality surprised Emmanuel Cruse, hence 1% in the Grand Vin. It also includes Petit Verdot planted in 1948. It is quintessentially Margaux on the nose with pressed violet and incense infusing the black fruit, beautifully defined with just some new oak to be assimilated. The palate is medium-bodied with svelte tannins, perfectly-judged acidity, harmonious and wonderfully focused on the peacock's tail of a finish. This is one of the finest d'Issans of the modern era.”

My notes: Definitely, one of the most beautiful châteaux in Bordeaux—old-school place with a moat around it! I love their wines from the ‘80s, having consumed most vintages with a few more in the cellar.

My barrel tasting notes: This wine is always solid of late. Red raspberry aromas that follow to the palate. It’s a serious wine for the cellar. And a fine value.

2020 La Gaffelière, St-Émilion $89.99 95-97 points Jeb Dunnuck: “Lots of blue fruits, leafy herbs, chocolate, and earthy goodness emerge from the 2020 Château Canon-La-Gaffeliere, a medium to full-bodied, dense, focused, elegant St-Emilion that needs plenty of air to show at its best. The purity of fruit is remarkable, and while it starts out tight and focused, it blossoms with air, showing a more expansive, layered, rich yet still fresh texture that keeps you coming back to the glass. It’s a thrilling St-Emilion readers should snatch up.”

My notes: Probably one of the hottest commodities in Bordeaux, La Gaffelière has been hitting it out of the ballpark since the 2017 vintage. Great terroir just below Ausone, and when their lower vineyards froze in 2017, they made all their wine from one of the best terroirs in Bordeaux. La Gaffelière is back—in a BIG way.

My barrel tasting notes: One of the best 2020s I have tasted. Fabulous aromas of black raspberry and blackberry. Very perfumy. Quite full-bodied, thick, and palate-filling. Lush, sweet, and sexy. Seamless and regal. A super value for sure.

My notes from tasting at the property: 20% less production than 2019. 60% Merlot and 40% Cab Franc. Asian spice aromas with some chocolate thrown in. Super fresh and elegant. Brings back memories of the great La Gaffelières—1953, 1955, 1959, 1961.

Over $100 and Well Worth It

2020 Pavie-Decesse, St-Emilion $129.99 94-96 points, Antonio Galloni in Vinous: "The 2020 Pavie-Decesse is compelling. Silky and voluptuous, it opens with a rush of inky red/purplish fruit, rose petal, lavender, spice, and mocha. There is terrific brightness and plenty of energy, but the luxuriousness of the fruit wins the day.”

2020 Enclos Tourmaline, Pomerol $144.99 97 points James Suckling: “This is pure Merlot, with black chocolate, bark, black truffle, ripe plum, and violets. Some black olives. This is very structured and linear with super fine tannins that run very, very long. Dense silky texture. Less than 3,000 bottles made. 1.1 hectares in total.

My notes: I have this wine in my cellar—another Kwok masterpiece.

2020 Pavillon Rouge du Margaux, Margaux $209.99 97 points James Suckling: "Subtle and attractive aromas of blackcurrants and flowers with hints of spices. Black truffles as well. Medium to full body, with fine tannins that are nicely integrated and racy. Succulent at the end.”

2020 Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux (1.5L) $249.99 98 points Decanter: "Juicy and lively fragrance on the nose—so perfumed and alluring. Delicate and pure on the palate, crystalline yet with such intensity. A rush of creamy tangy strawberries, herbal-edged raspberries and plum fruit lined with salty minerality gives the nuance and detail. It’s lightly framed with well-integrated tannins that are fine and firm, tense just giving some tightness on the mid-palate, a sense of compactness, but then it opens again towards the finish.”

Le Petit Mouton Rothschild kicks off the fantastic lineup from Mouton Rothschild in 2020.

2020 Le Petit Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac $269.99 98 points James Suckling: "Lots of violets, blackberries, bark and iodine. Oyster shell. Full-bodied. Firm and velvety tannins with a long and satisfying finish. Juicy and reserved at the end. Chewy and soft. Needs time to open. First growth.”

2020 Pavie, St-Emilion $359.99 100 points Jeb Dunnuck: "Pure perfection in red wine. Absolutely incredible in every way, it has a sensational bouquet of crème de cassis, smoked tobacco, chocolaty oak, graphite, white truffle, and hints of flowers. Pure, full-bodied, and concentrated, with perfect integration of its fruit, oak, and tannins, it's one of those wines that needs to be tasted to be believed.”

2020 l'Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol $349.99 97-99 points Jeb Dunnuck: "… Offering a restrained, yet concentrated, structured style, it reveals classic notes of red and black currants, leafy tobacco, loamy earth, and chocolate. This carries to a full-bodied, powerful, tannic 2020 that needs a solid 7-8 years of bottle age. It's going to be long-lived but is not for those seeking instant gratification. 97+"

2020 Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan (1.5L) $1325.00 Kate Soto (K&L): A “wow” wine. The palate unfolds in layers. Rich chocolate, mocha, minerals, sweet fruit with a long, long finish. Lots of body. Long ripe and firm tannins, which are integrated and balanced.

- Clyde Beffa Jr., Bordeaux Buyer and Co-owner