Around the World with Cabernet
Cabernet Sauvignon’s origins are believed to stretch back to France’s Aquitaine region in the 1600s. But it wasn’t until the late 1990s that U.C. Davis researchers determined through genetic testing that this beloved grape is a cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. Sequencing the genome in 2007 unlocked even more valuable insights into the origin, breeding, and characteristics of one of the most beloved cultivars on the planet.
Not surprisingly, France is the largest producer with roughly 48,000 hectares of vineyards planted. According to a 2017 report from the International Organization of Vines (OIV), Cabernet Sauvignon constitutes approximately 5% of the total world area under vines. It is estimated that there are more than 341,000 hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon planted globally, though that number has no doubt risen due to the constant drumbeat of demand.
It's easy to see why the king of grapes ascended the throne. Its vines are vigorous and hardy, capable of thriving in a wide variety of soil types and climates. Late budding helps avoid inclement seasonal weather and its fruit is slow to ripen, developing complex flavors through extended hangtimes. Small blue-black berries with thick skins produce concentrated, richly colored wines that are high in acid and tannins—keys to Cabernet Sauvignon’s age-worthiness and collectability.
This adaptability allows a wide range of distinctive profiles, terroir expressions, and quality levels, making it a fascinating wine to track on a global scale. :et’s explore a few more pin drops on the map of the wonderful world of Cabernet Sauvignon.
2019 Ferrero "Pepita" Rosso di Toscana $14.99 Though blended with Merlot, Montepulciano, and Alicante Bouchet, Cabernet Sauvignon really shines in this “baby Super Tuscan.” Luscious with juicy black cherries, plum, and pomegranate—complemented with spice, leather, and earthy Tuscan dust. Powerful yet balanced with a long, clean finish, easily outperforming wines two to three times the cost. It’s a natural pairing for a nicely seared bone-in steak with a side of cannellini beans, pizza, pasta in a rich tomato sauce, or a meaty lasagna. It’s a great option to bring to dinner as it will appeal to a broad range of palate preferences.
2021 Minimalist Wines "Experimental Noir" Cabernet Sauvignon Western Cape South Africa $24.99 “Behind Minimalist is 25-year old Sam Lambson, a South African winemaker who graduated from Stellenbosch University’s Enology and Viticulture program in 2018. His resume is impressive, having worked with South African winemaking all-stars Lukas Van Loggerenber, Chris Alheit and Carl van Der Merwe. He released his first vintage of minimalist wines on his 21st birthday and four vintages later, we were able to broker his wines into the US for the first time. “I really just wanted to do something that was the complete opposite of what everyone else in South Africa is doing.” he told me last Fall. I feel like trusting his instincts has served Sam very well. I couldn’t agree more with Neal Martin when he says “if this is a portent of what we can expect from winemaker Sam Lambson, then he will have to get accustomed to adulation and demand outstripping supply.”
Sam's experimental series is a testament to his drive to push the boundaries of South African fine wine. Each year, he sources two outstanding parcels and creates two unique wines—the Blanc and the Noir. The variety and the vineyard change every year, but this vintage's Noir is outstanding. Sourced from a cool site in the Polkadraai Hills, the palate is structured and powerful. There's tons of minerality here the bursts through its dark-fruited palate. An outstanding value for anyone who loves Cabernet from cool climates.” - Thomas Smith, K&L South African Wine Buyer
Garage Wine Co.’s vineyards in Chile.
2019 Garage Wine Company "Reelegido Vineyard - Lot 111" Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley $38.99 94RP 93VN 92JS Cabernet Sauvignon is by far Chile’s top cultivar, with 43,000 ha under vine, constituting roughly 20% of all grapes grown within its borders. Sourced from vines averaging 65 years of age, native yeast fermented, and aged in neutral French oak barrels—this release paints a vivid portrait of Cabernet Sauvignon planted on the mineral-rich, alluvial soils of Chile. Juicy cassis, blackberries, and plum with delicate brushstrokes of graphite and iron oxide. Fine-grained tannins and flashes of spice and tobacco add even more allure.
2019 Wines of Substance "Cs" Washington Cabernet Sauvignon $13.95 92JD 92JS Representing 28% of the total wine production, Cabernet Sauvignon is the most popular variety in Washington, eclipsing Chardonnay coming in at 14%. A pretty bouquet of violets and a lick of pencil tip with farmer’s market basket of ripe red fruits, sticky whole-leaf tobacco, dried mint, and walnuts. Jeb Dunnuck likens this to a top Cru Bourgeois from Bordeaux. Approachable now but will last five or six years in the cellar.
2021 Mac & Billy Cellars ‘M' Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon $24.99 95RP Cabernet Sauvignon totals almost half of all grape varieties grown across Paso Robles. Composed of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon with touches of Malbec, Merlot, and Petite Sirah, this is yet another wine that hugely overdelivers for its price point. A word of advice from K&L’s domestic wine buyer, Ryan Woodhouse, “Cult Napa Cab drinkers take note—this could be your Tuesday night wine.” Fruit-driven and fresh with ripe cassis and juicy blackberries, lavender, dried herbs, and crushed rock. Enjoyable now, ‘M’ is marvelous with grilled fare.
- Kerry Kirkham, K&L Writer and Editor