Hand-Crafted Italian Amaro from Vecchio Magazzino Doganale

The journey of Ivano Trombino's Vecchio Magazzino Doganale (VMD) as a distillery begins deep in the realms of family tradition and Italian craftsmanship dating back to the 1850s. Ivano's revival of his family's agricultural enterprise in 2016 blends history with innovation, further intertwined with a serendipitous maritime misadventure.

An unexpected meeting between Ivano's great-great grandfather, Giocondo, and an American sailor, Jefferson, birthed a distinctive brand of amaro liquors that now defines VMD. Amaro Importante, known in Italy as Jefferson, is a celebration of meticulous craftsmanship and year-round toil. Unlike the commonly practiced quick production using dried botanicals that takes merely five days and is used in concentrated form to flavor neutral spirits, Amaro Importante devotes an entire year to its creation process. The hallmark of Amaro Importante production lies in its unique process, where every botanical ingredient is macerated alone. Using a variety of fresh ingredients from all seasons, each has an individual maceration protocol at differing alcoholic strengths over varying periods: citrus fruits for three days in 80% alcohol, wormwood for ten days in 60% alcohol, and the mix of rosemary, eucalyptus, oregano, gentian, and rhubarb for ten days in 40% alcohol. Once individual maceration is complete, the ingredients are brought together and sweetened by the addition of cane sugar. Amaro Importante uses high-quality spirit from corn and barley offering texture and richness that many grape based amaros do not exhibit.

VDM sources of its ingredients from across Italy. Procuring lemons from Rocca Imperiale, known as the Mediterranean's capital city of lemons, and harvesting oranges, rosemary, pinecones, and pine needles from Trombino's family garden in Bisignano, Cosenza. They travel to Pellaro in southern Calabria for its richly flavorful bergamots. Unlike many liquors, Amaro Importante is best savored at room temperature, allowing each layered complexity to unfurl in its full glory. The face behind this magical brew, Ivano Trombino, adorns the label in his signature hat, adding a personal touch to every bottle. The shelf-stable nature of Amaro Importante permits a slow and appreciative indulgence over time—in essence, capturing the spirit and heritage of Italy in every sip.

Vecchio Magazzino Doganale "Madame Milu" Calabrian Herbal Liqueur (700ml) $59.99 is VDM’s answer to the great Alpine liqueurs of Savoy. This love-infused creation spins the tale of a Parisian star, a unique transatlantic romance, and dedication to the art of distilling. The innovative digestive liquor, named after the mesmerizing dancer who stole Jefferson's heart, is deeply rooted in Italian liquor tradition. The secret behind the herbaceous and robust Madame Milù is the selective blending of botanicals, each sourced from the lush farm of Vecchio Magazzino Doganale. The harmonious infusion of botanicals such as mint, marjoram, absinthe, elderflower, chamomile, pine cone resin, melissa, wild fennel, and phyllanthus form its heart. Breaking the distillery's norm of macerating ingredients separately, two potent elements, pine cone resin and wild fennel, are macerated together. Their combined maceration tames the intense flavors, presenting a balanced and harmonious blend. Sweetened with cane sugar and carrying a deceptive alcohol content of 45%, Madame Milù offers a tasteful adventure.

With an alcohol content of 45% and a serving temperature of between 41-50 °F, Madame Milù shines in its full glory. Mixing it with Cognac or Rum elevates its intricate flavor, creating an unparalleled experience for the palate. Wrap your senses in stories of a Parisian dancer, enigmatic American sailor, and Italian distillery—all beautifully expressed in each bottle of Madame Milù.

- David Othenin-Girard, K&L Spirits Buyer