Beautiful Atlantic Islands Produce the Ultimate Volcanic Wines
“Wine can be a vacation in a bottle”—This was one of my favorite sayings from a former colleague, and I love this sentiment. It works on several levels, and it touches on one of my favorite things about wine—exploration. Wine comes from all over the place—be it a backyard vineyard or a touted sites along the Gironde. What I love about my job as the Iberian Wine Buyer for K&L is all the unbelievable locations that fall under my umbrella. Spain and Portugal have some of the most dramatic growing regions in the world, including some of the most breathtaking vacation spots—and that includes islands.
The gorgeous Atlantic islands have been on top of mind for many people in the wine industry lately, as the wines being produced in places like the Canary and Azores islands are exciting and tremendously good. I have seen many great articles recently focusing on their many attributes. The vineyards are stunning… check out the above pictures of Pico and Lanzarote vineyards (l to r). Take a moment, take that in, have you ever seen vineyards that look like that? They are incredible. What’s even better, the wines from those vineyards are incredible. Volcanic wines are having a moment right now, but there are volcanic wines, and then there are Volcanic Wines! I have the images of these vineyards so interwoven in my mind that I see them in my mind's eye while tasting these wines. I go on a vacation with every glass of wine. And once you try these, I hope they will transport you, too.
Tenerife
Black and yellow sandy beaches, with a towering snow-covered volcano in the background. Partially terraced vineyards with vibrant green vines contrasting with the very stony ground that they are planted in. One of the varietals that stands out the most here is Listan Negro. Thought to be native to the islands this is the ultimate island red, chillable, vibrant with layers of dark fruits, spicy and even some smokiness. Here are a few bottles to get the feel for Tenerife’s wine style:
2021 Viñátigo Listán Negro Tenerife Canary Islands $25.99 Vinatigo has been at the forefront of viticulture here for decades.
2022 Bodegas Arautava Listan Negro Tenerife $24.99 Long time grower on the island, now helmed by their third generation winemaker; this is a producer to keep your eyes on.
Lanzarote
This is the island that I am most fascinated with. It looks otherworldly. Los Bermejos farms sustainably and organically. They make wine simply with as little intervention as possible. They have Listan Negro planted (used in the rosés below), Malvasia, and Diego Seco (an ancient grape that survived in isolation on the island). Check out their lineup:
2023 Los Bermejos Diego Seco Lanzarote Canary Islands $34.99
2023 Los Bermejos Rosado Lanzarote $29.99
2019 Los Bermejos Brut Nature $34.99
2019 Los Bermejos Rosado Brut Nature $34.99
Pico
Now here are some very isolated islands. Viticulture here is a heroic effort. So much so it is a Unesco World Heritage site. The lava rock walls date back to the 15th century. They protect the vines from the wind and seawater—yes sea water. Some vineyards are just meters from the ocean. Wines from Pico have an intensity to them that is easy to ascribe to just surviving in the middle of the ocean. They have weight, cut and minerality. Here are a few of my favorites to try:
2020 Ilha do Pico "Terras de Lava" Azores $19.99
2020 Ilha do Pico "Terroir Vulcanico" Verdelho Pico Azores $44.99