Brilliantly Aged Old-Vine Champagne from Fallet-Dart
The Fallet family of Champagne Fallet-Dart has written records of being vine growers in Drachy going all the way back to 1610. The family has almost certainly been there even longer than that. Their 47 acres of vineyard are closer to Paris than to Épernay, located in the Aisne department on the banks of the Marne river. The family’s extraordinarily long time in this business has given them patience like few other producers—as a matter of fact they supply us with our oldest current-release Champagne at 20 years old!
Many readers of this newsletter have met Paul Fallet, who has come to pour at numerous Champagne Tent Events and who is responsible for managing the vineyards at Fallet-Dart with help from his dog Otis (left). One of the great “secret” deals in grower Champagne here at K&L is the Fallet-Dart "Grande Sélection" Brut Champagne $37.99, which is always aged at least six years, but usually (and this time) for seven. It is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay, and 15% Meunier and has a light gold color, fine brioche nose and wonderful round, rich flavor. If you have enjoyed Champagnes like Deutz and Bollinger, this is one not to miss.
The best new Champagne of my 2025 buying trip to the region was their 2019 Fallet-Dart "Pur Meunier" Champagne $69.99 that comes from two 80-year-old, massal selected plots of Meunier called Morlot and Les Chaillots in Drachy. The Champenois, who rarely hype vintages, fancy 2019 as the best vintage since at least 2012, and perhaps 2008, and this early release is a confirmation of the incredible potential of this special year. This wine was made in stainless steel, has a white gold color, and a seductive aroma of crisp Anjou pear framed by fresh baguette. In the mouth it has the generosity and richness that Meunier is famous for, but without becoming heavy. The star here is the finish: it is incredibly long, expansive, and loaded with tarte tatin complexity, old-vine minerality, and dry savor—all displayed like a fanned-out peacock’s tail! This wine demonstrates just how noble Meunier can be when it comes from old vines, a careful winemaker, and is given enough time on the lees.
Now 20 years old, the incredible Fallet-Dart "Clos du Mont" Brut Champagne (2006) $79.99 is true grower tête de cuvée. The Clos du Mont is a walled vineyard that is down to its last wall, the other three long since destroyed in the First World War. But what is 110 years in the context of a grower that has been around for more than 400 years? A barrel-fermented blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, this has a light gold color and an explosive bouquet of golden brioche and white truffles. In the mouth it is full bodied, with a good stream of miniscule bubbles. But just like the “Pur Meunier,” the fresh acidity comes on strong, leaving a dry, chalky, near-endless finish. If you love mature Champagne, I can promise you that even spending a lot more money will rarely get you the equal of this fabulous bottle. One of our best partners for pâté and special occasions!
A toast to you!