The Soul of Chinon at Domaine de Pallus
Chinon remains one of the most iconic Cabernet Franc producing regions along the Loire, and few domaines capture its range and nuance as clearly as Domaine de Pallus. Sitting at the confluence of the Loire and Vienne rivers, alluvial soils layer over deeply buried limestone bedrock, and where you find yourself on the slope determines everything. Whether the alluvium above is loam, clay, sand, or gravel, the wines shift accordingly, from fruity and approachable to structured and cellar-worthy. One of the region's brightest stars is vigneron Bertrand Sourdais, a fifth-generation winemaker whose circuitous path through Spain only deepened his eventual homecoming.
After completing his oenology degree in Bordeaux, Bertrand built an impressive reputation at Domaine de Atauta in Ribera del Duero. Cabernet Franc was always the grape he intended to return to, and with his father nearing retirement, he came home to the family estate. Since then, he steadily transitioned the domaine toward sustainable, then organic farming. He’s now well along the path to full biodynamic viticulture.
Bertrand's Domaine de Pallus holds prime parcels in Cravant-les-Côteaux, in the heart of what is often called the "golden slope," facing the Vienne River between Chinon and Panzoult. The estate's flagship, Les Pensées de Pallus, represents his vision of classic Chinon, while his limited single-vineyard bottlings each speak to distinct parcels and terroirs. Across the range, Bertrand favors long, gentle extractions and patient aging in neutral Burgundian barrels; it’s a quiet, unhurried approach that lets the land do the talking.
2020 Domaine de Pallus "Les Pensees de Pallus" Chinon $25.99 93JS 93JG Everything I love about Chinon is captured in this glass. Sourced from a mid-slope terrace, the vines grow in sand and iron-rich gravel over limestone bedrock—and you can taste it. There's a vibrant mix of spiced cherries, violet, and black olive, lifted by a whisper of wild thyme. The interplay between fruitiness and savoriness keeps the wine beautifully balanced and makes it endlessly versatile at the table. My favorite pairing? Herb-roasted chicken with potatoes tossed in the pan drippings. Absolute perfection for a weeknight meal.
2020 Domaine de Pallus "Le Clos de Pallus" Chinon $39.99 94JS 93VN 92CK The Clos de Pallus is a monopole surrounding the family home, planted in 1962 with ideal southeast exposure. The vines grow in siliceous clay over that signature limestone bedrock, and the wine is aged 18 months in barrique before an additional six months of rest in tank. The result is old-school Chinon at its finest—structured, savory, and deeply terroir-driven. Aromas of blackcurrant, olive tapenade, and roasted red pepper leap from the glass, giving way to rosehip and freshly picked sage as the wine opens. The palate shows lovely texture, with tannins just beginning to soften into the background. My favorite OG Cabernet Franc on the shelf right now. It would shine alongside smoked duck, braised pork, or a classic tête de veau.
For those looking to cellar, two single-parcel wines round out the range; both are highly regarded and very limited. The 2019 Domaine de Pallus "La Croix Boissée" Chinon $84.99 95JG 95JS 94VN comes from one of the area's most iconic vineyards, where Domaine de Pallus holds a prime parcel; it is an exquisite, age-worthy wine in every sense. And the 2019 Domaine de Pallus "La Rougerie" Chinon $114.99 96VN 95JS, which Bertrand considers his finest vineyard, is a collectible of the highest order — equally at home in the cellar alongside the very best wines the Loire has to offer.