Beyond Sancerre: The Loire’s Next Great Sauvignon Blancs
With its steep hillsides, clay-limestone soils, and legions of passionate devotees, Sancerre remains at the pinnacle of Sauvignon Blanc in the Loire, if not the world. This is the style of Sauvignon Blanc that has set the bar to which all other versions of that animated grape aspire. But hardly to be forgotten are the astonishing wines of its next door neighbor Pouilly-Fumé, where the silex soils lend subtle and engaging aromas of gunflint to the wines. A personal favorite, the 2022 Domaine Tabordet "L'Autre Rive" Pouilly Fumé $24.99 91VN is, like all the domaine wines, organically and biodynamically cultivated and harvested at the peak of ripeness. Following indigenous yeast fermentation, it is aged, unlike the regular domaine bottling, for 10-12 months in older oak barrels before bottling. I found the harmonious flavors showcased the leesy richness, lemon verbena and flinty stone imprint of the region. It’s a compelling wine that would covet a welcoming dish of grilled scallops.
We also sell their highly attractive and precise 2023 Domaine Tabordet Pouilly-Fumé (Elsewhere $30) $19.99 92VN, cultivated from three distinct terroirs (silex, marl and limestone) for added complexity and textural elegance. It’s a wine of wonderful poise and charm, embellished with aromas of grapefruit and passionfruit married to a classic palate of lime blossom, wet stone, and citrus rind. Uncork it with breaded, sautéed calamari or swordfish skewers for a spring feast!
Certainly our greatest value in Sauvignon Blanc can be found in the mouthful of both words and wine, the 2023 Domaine du Vieil Orme Sauvignon "Inphini" Touraine Chenonceaux Blanc (Previously $20) $11.99, a richer version from the original bottling that we’ve carried for years. The Touraine region comprises a wide range of wine styles, from the robust reds of Bourgueil and Chinon to the expressive whites of Vouvray, but there is always room for another, and this refreshing wine evokes aromas of tropical fruits: mango, lychee, quince, with delightful flavors of sweet citrus and peach skin. It is so enticing and makes for the perfect aperitif to serve at a spring barbecue! Or savor those earlier grilled scallops for another delicious treat!
Lastly, a Sauvignon Blanc from the eastern Loire that has always captivated my palate by its superb acidity and concentration, the 2024 Domaine de Reuilly "Les Pierres Plates" Reuilly Blanc $21.99, hand-harvested from vines averaging 23 years, fermented for 15 days on native yeasts with frequent pumpovers. A thoroughly satisfying wine awash in citrus, white flowers and saline minerality. Bring on the fresh oysters!