Exploring the Atlantic Coast of Iberia
When imagining Spain and Portugal, hot and arid landscapes often come to mind, with golden rolling hills dotted with gnarled old vines. The far northwestern corner of Spain, however, often referred to as “Green Spain,” defies this stereotype. Likewise, across the Miño River (or Minho River, depending on what language you’re speaking) in northern Portugal, the wine regions are defined by a cool, coastal climate with ample rainfall.
Perhaps the two most well-known appellations in this part of Iberia are Rias Baixas in Spain, famed for producing Albariño in a range of styles, and Vinho Verde in Portugal where the name itself immediately conjures up fresh and zesty white wines. Both appellations have been carved into subregions to help differentiate further their styles, with those along the coast, such as the Val do Salnés area of Rias Baixas and the Lima area of Vinho Verde, producing the leanest styles of wine with a distinctive saline tinge. More inland sub-regions, such as Contado do Tea where our direct import partner Adegas Valtea is located, can produce more richly concentrated wines framed by brisk acidity.
The range of white wines produced in this corner of Iberia is vibrant with a refreshing profile, especially in Vinho Verde. In one corner are the fizzy, low-alcohol contenders like the Caves Messias Santola "Crab Wine" Vinho Verde $9.99, affectionately referred to as the “Crab Wine” by everyone at K&L, mainly because of the crustacean on the label, but also because it is actually very good with crab! The wine is delightfully spritzy and just a bit off dry. Another great example of this style is the 2024 Quinta da Raza Vinho Verde $11.99, similarly fizzy and low in alcohol but bone dry. In contrast to these two wines are the still styles of Vinho Verde, generally made from either the peachy Loureiro or more citrus-driven Alvarinho. Wines like the 2023 Soalheiro "Granit" Alvarinho Monção e Melgaço Vinho Verde $27.99 92WA show the more serious side of the appellation, with intense minerality.
Across the border in Spain, the white wines are mostly 100% Albariño but a few sub-regions permit the additions of either Loureira or Treixadura depending on location. With notes of ripe nectarine, orange blossom, and lemon zest on the nose, Albariño is often fruit-forward on first approach but the intensely high level of acidity refreshes the palate, giving the wines an almost electric feel. Some wineries, like Pazo Barrantes (owned by Rioja’s Marques de Murietta) experiment with extended aging on the lees and maturation of a portion of the wine in wooden casks. The result is 2022 Pazo de Barrantes Albariño Rias Baixas $52.99 94WA, an incredibly complex wine with a high level of concentration.
A bit further inland in Northwestern Spain is the small region of Bierzo, which has put two varieties on the global wine radar: Godello and Mencia. After almost nearly going extinct just a few decades ago, the white Godello has exploded onto the Spanish wine scene and is now a variety becoming more and more well-known each year. Almost Chardonnay-like in structure, with great palate weight and refreshing acidity, juicy stone fruit and lemon oil notes add an attractive component. This is definitely a variety to try! The red Mencia, on the other hand, has been compared to Gamay or Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley. Inky fuschia in color, the variety is both floral and berry-driven with surprisingly high acid and an almost forest floor type of sauvage character. While the climate here is certainly warmer than directly along the coast, it remains cooler, with significantly higher rainfall than the majority of Spain, allowing the more delicate aromatics to develop. The wines crafted by Raúl Pérez are a great starting point, as he is considered by many to be a pioneering winemaker credited with much of the resurgence of the region. Both wild and elegant, his wines capture the essence of the region.
Here are a few great wines from this corner of Spain to start your own exploration:
Caves Messias Santola "Crab Wine" Vinho Verde $9.99
2024 Quinta da Raza Vinho Verde $11.99
2024 Mendes & Symington "Contacto" Loureiro Vinho Verde $21.99 92WA
2023 Soalheiro "Granit" Alvarinho Monção e Melgaço Vinho Verde $27.99 92WA
2023 Adegas Valtea Albariño Rias Baixas $17.99
2023 Do Ferreiro Albariño Rias Baixas $34.99 93WA
2024 Fento (Eulogio Pomares) "Bico da Ran" Albariño Rias Baixas $21.99
2022 Pazo de Barrantes Albariño Rias Baixas $52.99 94WA
2024 Soto del Vicario "Go de Godello" Godello Bierzo $15.99
2023 Raúl Pérez "Ultreia" Godello Bierzo $27.99 93WA
2022 Raúl Pérez "Ultreia St-Jacques" Mencía Bierzo $21.99 93WA
2022 Luna Beberide "Finca" Mencía Bierzo $17.99 93WA 93TA