Hermanos Hernáiz: “Charming and Serious” Rioja from a Special Vineyard
Last year we started our relationship with the Hernaiz brothers. I am enamored with their wines. They do two of the most important things a wine can do: The first and foremost, their wines are delicious. It is a treat to drink their wines. Secondly, their wines tell a story. That is something that not all wines need to do, but for me these wines perfectly capture Rioja, the deep history of the region, and how it is trying to move forward.
The place to start is the vineyard, the Finca Emperatriz. The name comes from a former owner of the property, the Empress Eugénie de Montijo, the last empress of France and wife to Napoleon III. This is an old estate, with lots of old vines; most are 50 to 60 years old, but there are almost 100 parcels! This estate is planted in the eastern corner of Rioja. Here the vineyards are impacted not only by the Sierra Cantabrian Mountains to the north, but the Sierra de la Demanda to the south. This is one of the coolest growing regions in all of Rioja. The soils are formed from the erosion of the latter set of mountains, mostly large stones over sand. The soil and the old, head-trained vines are what caught the brothers' attention and that of the appellation.
How these wines represent the future of Rioja has to do with a new classification of vineyards in Rioja, Viñedo Singular. This is an attempt by the appellation to single out special and unique sites within the region. There is no Premier Cru or Grand Cru in Rioja, so this new classification is a way to elevate certain sites. The vineyards must be owned or under long-term contract with the grower, old, and have a unique geographical unit. And, of course, it is a long and detailed application process. The entire Finca La Emperatriz was classified as a Viñedo Singular. These wines are a perfect ambassador for this concept. While there are quite a few of these sites, Finca La Emperatriz is one of only a few that make traditional wines; those other sites produce wines that are modern and delicious, but made in a way that can be more challenging to understand. Not these. These are wines that express a very distinctive terroir, and they are classically styled. These are wines for everyone—the novice, the enthusiast, and the nerd.
2018 Hermanos Hernáiz "Finca La Emperatriz" Reserva Rioja $39.99 95TA This is the flagship for the winery, and it delivers an expected yet unexpected Rioja experience. What do I mean by that? This goes more for the red than the white, which I think that could represent the reverse of that sentiment. The red, once you pull the cork and pour yourself a glass, you know that this is a Rioja: the balance of the fruit to the non-fruit aromas; the breadth of spice that only comes from Tempranillo that is aged not only in new French oak but in American oak too. There is nothing else like classic Rioja, you know just what to expect. Then it becomes so much more. The quality of the fruit must be the confluence of the cooler climate, the soil, the age of the vines, and winemaking—not to mention that this is a field blend! Tempranillo with 20% Garnacha and a small amount of Viura. This sings on the palate. There is a vibrancy and a ripeness to the fruit thanks to the concrete tank fermentation, destemming, and partial carbonic fermentation. This was made in a very traditional way but done with a careful modern eye. Vibrant and pure, spiced and classically earthy. Just what I said, expected but unexpected.
2018 Hermanos Hernáiz "Finca La Emperatriz" Blanco Reserva Rioja $39.99 95DC This is a game-changing white Rioja. This is one of only a handful of Viñedo Singular white wines. This corner of Rioja Alta has always been white wine country. How else can you explain a 90+-year-old vineyard of only Viura? The wine is fermented half in concrete tank, half in French oak barrels. The wine is fermented in concrete then spends an additional eight months of aging there while the oak half sees nine months, with minimal bâttonage. Made from a varietal that has a reputation for neutrality, this is anything but. Pure and aromatic, the delicate fruit and floral notes balance with the spice from the oak. On the palate there is some texture—that is the place where the fruit shines but the fine and driving mineral-laden acid line really draws attention. This is charming and serious.