Misunderstood Meunier
Even though the grape variety Meunier covers about one-third of the Champagne region, it is still little understood by most wine lovers. Unlike Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Meunier is indigenous to the Champagne region. Perhaps the fact that it is not from Burgundy (like the other two) is part of the reason for this lack of understanding. After all, no wine region in the world is more studied than Burgundy. I am certain that even more Meunier would be planted if it were not for the fact that most growers sell their harvest every year to the big houses and get a higher price for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Growers in the Marne Valley who keep their grapes to make wine for themselves often find Meunier to make the best wine, and thus plant more of it than their neighbors who sell all of their grapes. It is very well adapted to the region, and the last of the three to bud out, which means it will avoid the worst of the spring frosts so common and dangerous in this region. Although many of the big houses disregard Meunier, it is interesting to me that two of the very best prize it: Billecart and Krug. At Billecart they ferment it cold and slow to emphasize its fruit, while at Krug it is often aged for many years in tank as reserve wine and used to add savor to their famed Champagnes.
Claire Derot and her family, whom many of you have met at our tent events, makes the excellent Dérot-Delugny "Milieu Naturel" Blanc de Noirs Brut $34.99 in Crouttes-sur-Marne, one of the westernmost villages of Champagne. This 100% Meunier bottling is fermented in enamel-lined iron tanks (like a big Le Creuset) rather than in stainless steel or in wood. All of their wine (not just the reserves) are kept for more than a year in tank before bottling—something that no other producer that I know of does. They believe that this long élevage yields more complexity in the wine, and since they are the oldest producer in the region, making their own wines since the 1920s, they can afford to be patient. The Champagne is aged for another three years on the lees before release. The Milieu Naturel has the classic tarte tatin aromas and flavors of Meunier: lovely pastry dough toast, clean pear fruit, and an excellent dry finish. It is great for the aperitif or to pair with nuts of all types—especially chestnuts!
Only one press load, 3000 bottles of the 2016 Thierry Thibault Vintage Brut Champagne $49.99 were made. As Thierry’s U.S. importer, we were lucky enough to be allocated 10%—300 bottles! This wine comes from one plot in the village of Verneuil called “La Croix St. Remy” planted over 50 years ago with the family massal selection instead of clones. Too me, this amazing is 100% Meunier, and it shows the incredible generosity of the variety, while still focusing up on the finish into a dry, mineral Champagne. I love the big brioche, the subtle umami and the layers of complexity in this wine. It is incredibly impressive for the price. Like all Meunier, I love to pair it with pâté!
The Champenois fancy the 2019 vintage to be the best since at least 2012, and the 2019 Alexandre Le Brun "Cuvée Revelation" Brut Champagne (Previously $80) $58.99 is a great example of the potential of this harvest. I find this wine to be one of the most intricate and complex in our stock, regardless of price. It comes from one plot in the very cool microclimate of Monthelon, just south of Epernay, from vines as old as I have seen in the region. The young half of the vineyard was planted in 1950, and the old half in 1903! This barrel-fermented Champagne is only a fraction of a press load—with the rest of the press being used as reserve wines for Alex’s “Tradition.” A sleek style of Meunier, this subtly spicy, multi-layered bottling has an incredible amount going on in it—yet, because of the cold nights in Monthelon, stays invigorating and fresh on the back end. I think this is one of the few ways to “rub the Krug spot” without going broke!
Until recently, I had to allocate the Laherte Frères Extra Brut "Rosé de Meunier" Champagne $54.99 to two bottles per customer. Located in Chavot, one village over from Monthelon, Laherte is the most famous grower in the cold sud Épernay sub-region of Champagne. This all-Meunier bottling has 40% reserve wines from older vintages, and gets its color from just under a third of the wine getting short skin contact, and 10% from an old-vine plot that is vinified red. With haunting orange sanguine notes and delicate pastry crust toast, this rosé manages to have both vinous depth and refreshing elegance.
In order to see just how fresh a high-percentage Meunier bottling can be, check out the Billecart-Salmon "Brut Réserve" Champagne $59.99. This is 40% Meunier, 40% Chardonnay, and 20% Pinot Noir, and fermented at almost lager-like temperatures to preserve as much freshness as possible. The ultimate Big House Champagne for those who prize a clean, refreshing, one-glass-is-not-enough style. This has been a K&L best seller for longer than the 25 years I have been on the job. The subtle fruit and clean acidity that the Meunier brings to the table in this blend is amazing!
For many of us, the Krug "Grande Cuvée" 172ème Édition Brut Champagne $259.99 is not only one of the greatest Champagnes, it is also one of the world’s greatest wines. While Meunier makes up just 20% of this bottling, with Pinot Noir (44%) and Chardonnay (36%) making up most of the blend, its contribution is unique. With 13 vintages going into this blend, older reserves of Meunier give this wine the savory complexity and add layers that could not be accomplished with Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. Every Champagne lover should experience Krug at least once—the incredible peacock’s tail display of this icon of the wine world is unforgettable.
If this article has piqued your interest, we will be doing a tasting of all these Champagnes (as long as none sell out beforehand!) in all four of our locations on Saturday February the 8th. Why not come and see for yourself what Meunier is capable of!
Saturday February 8: Misunderstood Meunier – A Champagne Tasting
Redwood City and San Francisco: 1 – 4 PM
Hollywood and Culver City: 3 – 6 PM
$30
Come by and celebrate the mighty Meunier grape with these fine Champagnes:
Dérot-Delugny "Milieu Naturel" Blanc de Noirs Brut - $34.99
2016 Thierry Thibault Vintage Brut Champagne - $49.99
2019 Alexandre Le Brun "Cuvée Revelation" Brut Champagne - $58.99
Laherte Frères Extra Brut "Rosé de Meunier" Champagne - $54.99
Billecart-Salmon "Brut Réserve" Champagne - $59.99
Krug "Grande Cuvée" 172ème Édition Brut Champagne - $259.99
Lineup is subject to change.
A toast to you!