A Tale of Two Riojas: Modern vs. Classic
In recent years, Rioja has been experiencing a tidal wave of change, with many young and new winemakers eager to make their mark upon the classic region. And while Rioja might still be most well-known for the long-aged wines of the Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva classification system, smaller wineries are increasingly rejecting this system in favor of the flexibility to craft wines that represent a more modern, terroir-driven perspective. The resulting “modern” Rioja wines bear the generic Rioja label, but they are anything but generic!
“Modern” Riojas are often younger, fresher, and more fruit-forward, emphasizing the terroir of specific vineyard sites over blending fruit from all over the region. Having just returned from Rioja, I can attest that this is a very exciting development! A patchwork of small parcels spread over undulating terrain, Rioja might be the perfect place to explore how single villages and vineyards express themselves, especially without the influence of new oak.
Fortunately, this is not to say that the classic wines of the region are now unfashionable. Quite the opposite is true. The classics have never been more distinctive, showcasing the extended aging that Rioja is so well known for. How many other regions in the world, after all, age their wines for you, holding them back until ready to drink, yet do not charge a premium for doing so? In my opinion, Rioja is one of the most compelling wine regions in Spain–if not the world–to explore right now. Balancing tradition with innovation, there is a wine style for every palate and preference. Below are a few of my picks for “modern” Rioja, as well as “classic” Rioja. Try one or two from each column, and you’ll have a great (and delicious) sense of what’s underway in this historic region.
“Modern” Rioja
2024 Nivarius Tempranillo Blanco Rioja $17.99 "Nivarius" is a Latin term that defines the natural well where the snow was kept all year round–a nod to the cool, high-elevation sites in Rioja Alta this wine comes from. Tempranillo Blanco is a relatively rare mutation of the more familiar red Tempranillo, and, when made in a lean, fresh style like the Nivarius, is bursting with just ripe stone fruit and a lacy, crisp texture on the palate.
2023 Sierra de Tolono Blanco Rioja $21.99 93TA 92DC Exceptionally racy and lean, this wine defies stereotypes of what Viura can taste like. Winemaker Sandro Bravo is working with old vine parcels in the highest areas of Rioja Alavesa, which clearly comes through in the stony, mineral-driven palte. Clocking in at just 11.5% alcohol, this is an almost Chablisienne style of white Rioja!
2022 Olivier Riviere "Rayos Uva" Rioja $21.99 92JS Made by a Frenchman by birth, this modern take on Rioja is meant to be akin to a Bourgogne Rouge–juicy, supple and easy to drink. 50% Graciano, 30% Garnacha, and 20% Tempranillo, the wine is fermented and aged in concrete, leading to vibrant and youthful expression of Rioja.
2019 Proelio "Vinedos Viejos" Garnacha Rioja $21.99 93TA 92JS Proelio is a relatively new project in Rioja, established in 2012 with a focus on preserving older, higher elevation vineyards throughout Rioja. This is an unusual 100% Garnacha Rioja, sourced from old vineyard sites with an average age of 80 years. This is the historic region for growing Garnacha. Fermented with partial whole cluster, notes of red plum and strawberry dominate, backed by spicy, savory background notes.
2021 Berta Valgañón "Selección Natural" Rioja $27.99 Berta Valgañón is a winemaker to watch! A self-taught, one-woman operation (except during harvest, when her husband and two teenage children pitch in), Berta inherited multiple old vine parcels planted by her grandfather and now crafts thoughtful Riojas meant to showcase terroir, without overt oak or extraction. A field blend of mainly Tempranillo, with smaller parts Graciano and Garnacha, this wine is savory and floral, with notes of thyme, scrubby underbrush and lavender.
2023 Berta Valgañón "Selección Maturana Tinta" Rioja $29.99 93TA Maturana Tinta is the rarest red variety in Rioja, so rare that it almost went extinct a few decades ago. This is a variety often seen as a minor component in traditional field blends, but Berta decided to vinify each variety in one of her parcels separately, and was taken by how well the Maturana expressed itself on its own – and I agree! Inky in the glass, it’s more black-fruited than red, with wild blackberry and faint licorice mingling together. A singular style of Rioja not to be missed.
2020 Bideona "S4MG0 Vinas Viejas" Rioja $28.99 (Previously $40) 96VN 94PG 93JS 93TA If there’s one prouder that exemplifies the future of Rioja, it might be Bideona. Founded by two Masters of Wine, Bideona is a project fully dedicated to exploring the unique villages and terroirs of Rioja Alavesa. Until very recently, the Rioja DOCa did not allow wineries to label by village, so Bideona’s cheeky workaround was to create codes that stood in for the village names, with S4MG0 representing the village of Samaniego. 100% Tempranillo framed by 20% new oak, this Rioja is supremely elegant, with intense concentration but none of the extra flab. It instead glides across the palate in the most elegant way.
“Classic” Rioja
2022 Palacio del Burgo Crianza Rioja $17.99 95DC Possibly the best under $20 Rioja I tried last year, this wine is aged in traditional American oak barrels for 12 months, leading to classic notes of coconut, dried dill, saddle leather and baking spices. For those that like oaked Riojas, this is an impressive entry-level example.
2017 López de Heredia "Viña Cubillo" Crianza Rioja $34.99 94TA 93WA 92VN López de Heredia is a winery where it feels like time has stopped. With 100-year-old wooden fermentation tanks and traditional wooden basket presses, the family has changed little in their winemaking process, continuing to lean on American oak barrels for maturation and holding the wines back at the winery before release far longer than what is required by the appellation. The Viña Cubillo, although labelled a Crianza, is aged longer than most wineries’ Reservas! Brimming with Bing cherry, crunchy pomegranate and plum, all swaddled in subtle American oak flavors of vanilla and tobacco, this is an exceptional Crianza.
2020 La Rioja Alta "Viña Alberdi" Reserva Rioja $23.99 93JS 92DC 92JG 92WA 92TA Made from 100% Tempranillo from high-altitude, old vine vineyards in Rioja Alta, the Alberdi follows La Rioja Alta’s classic style, with two years of aging in American oak barrels manufactured in-house, which imparts signature spice and aromas of vanilla, hazelnut and coconut. This is an intensely aromatic wine that is also highly approachable now.
2020 Marqués de Murrieta Reserva Rioja $27.99 94JS 94WA 94TA 93PG 92VN Aged in American oak for 26 months, the Marqués de Murrieta Reserva is the definition of elegance and class. Supple, well-integrated tannins coat the palate, and bright red fruit balances with savory dried herbs, tobacco, and tea leaf.
2015 Bodegas Ontañon Reserva Rioja $24.99 93JS One of the most appealing things about classic Rioja is the wide availability of mature, ready-to-drink vintages at an incredibly reasonable price. This wine is a great example of that! Aged in American and French oak barrels for 24 months, this wine is showing some signs of development–graphite, mushroom, cedar–but still has loads of bright red fruit, too.
2014 López de Heredia "Viña Bosconia" Reserva Rioja $49.99 95VN 94WA The fruit for this wine is sourced from the family’s El Bosque vineyard which is located about one kilometer away from Haro. Vines here are planted on the south-facing foothills of the Sierra Cantabria range. As a result, the fruit profile tends to include darker fruit notes, which the 2014 Viña Bosconia clearly shows. Wild blackberries and black and red plum skin mingle together, along with stony minerality, anise and mushroom.
2012 López de Heredia "Viña Tondonia" Reserva Rioja $59.99 96JS 95WA 95TA 95VN 93JG Considered by many to be the most spectacular vineyard in Haro, as it hugs a wide bend in the Ebro River, Viña Tondonia is López de Heredia’s flagship wine, and the Reserva consistently overdelivers for its still reasonable price. Extraordinarily bright and fresh for a wine over a decade old, aromas of slightly dried red cherry and plum combine with dried tarragon, cedar and saddle leather. Incredibly savory on the finish, this is one of the best “old school” Riojas out there, offering up loads of complexity and nuance.
2016 Bodegas Muga "Prado Enea" Gran Reserva Rioja $94.99 97JD 97JS 97WA 97WE 96TA 96VN Prado Enea is the flagship wine at Muga, and it is a steadfastly traditional Gran Reserva that is typically only produced every four years or so. Matured in French and American oak barrels for three years, the Prado Enea showcases Muga’s powerful, rich style, yet remains elegant and well-balanced on the palate. A true classic!
2012 CVNE "Imperial" Gran Reserva Rioja $119.99 97TA 96GC 95RP 94JS 94VN Another flagship wine of Rioja, the Imperial Gran Reserva is a long-standing favorite of Rioja collectors. Prized for its intensely savory nose and svelte, medium-bodied palate, this is a wine firmly for traditionalists. Cedar, cigar box, dried dill and oregano – there is a virtual spice rack of flavors and aromas in this wine, yet it’s wrapped up in a palate that feels surprisingly fresh!