Whether you’re a seasoned Sangiovese collector, newly enraptured with Tuscany or just reaching for a warming red this season, finding the right bottle of Chianti Classico is getting a whole lot easier.
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In Italy’s northwest corner, in the region of Piedmont, one of the world’s great wines is produced. In 2019 the weather gods have shined once again on the Langhe Hills and the Nebbiolo grapes that grow there. For Barolo lovers, 2019 is nothing less than dynamite.
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Food-and-wine pairing is more than a parlor trick; it’s a brain teaser than can bring out the real joy in eating. On Thanksgiving, when there are myriad flavors and textures on the same plate, wine lovers have their work cut out for them. This week, we’re doing a roundup of favorite in-stock choices from our wine buyers—each handpicked, each as unique as the buyers themselves.
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I think it took me at least two years to figure out the proper pronunciation for this winery, it’s [FEL-zina], so don’t feel bad if you didn’t have it correct. I was with Giuseppe Mazzocolin, the then manager of the winery and son-in-law of the owner. Giuseppe had a background in classics—not winemaking or anything to do with it—but he nonetheless jumped in to help resurrect the winery. The Poggiali Family purchased the property in 1966 and began renovating it. In the late 1970s Giuseppe arrived and changed the game.
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Back 100 years ago Alto Piemonte was the place for wine in Piedmont and also the Pope’s favorite. Now, as climate change has made ripening less of a challenge in Alto Piemonte, more and more producers have started to expand into that territory, and it has drawn natives like Paolo de Marchi of Chianti’s Isole e Olena back to make wine on their home turf.
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One of Tuscany’s least-known appellations is Chianti Rufina, so often pronounced incorrectly and confused with the Chianti producer Ruffino. The DOC is pronounced [ROO-fin-ah] and the producer is pronounced [Roof-fino], which is confusing even more when you know that the Ruffinos sold to Folonari and then bought Folonari. So the Folonaris own Ruffino and the Ruffinos own Folonari…alas, I digress.
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Unlike in Tuscany, where wineries are frequently 600-700 years old or more, in Piedmont you’re old if it’s been 100 years. Scarpa is one of those that counts as ancient in Piedmont, founded by Antonio Scarpa in 1854 then sold to Mario Pesce in 1949. It was in the 1960s and early 1970s that Scarpa became a player by buying multiple properties and producing single-vineyard wines, which was not common in those days. Today, their wines celebrate their roots by leaning into the old-school style of the 1960s and 70s.
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Call me silly but I always find staying in castles a bit exciting—not that I’m into hanging out over the ramparts, but there’s just something about it. It’s no different at the Castello di Perno except this small castle is poised on a ridge above the village of Monforte d’Alba, one of my favorites in Barolo. It’s an old castle, but the thing that is really interesting is that Giulio Einaudi, one of Italy’s most famous publishers, owned this up until 2012 when Giorgio Gitti purchased it and the estate. They still have Einaudi’s library, and it gave me goosebumps when I visited and walked over the creaking wooden floor and smelled the dusty old manuscripts—it made me feel like I was in a castle!
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Every time I write an introduction for one of these newsletters I feel a great weight, like all of Italy is depending on me to explain their wines, because a lot of the wines do take some explaining! Italy’s bountiful wine culture produces a plethora of styles from hundreds of unique varieties—it’s really complicated. It’s not just grape varieties that contribute to the intricacy of the wine culture; it’s the varied terrain of mountains, valleys, cliffs, plus a myriad of different trellising methods—and then there’s diverse winemaking methods such drying the grapes as well. But this month I’ll be talking about Italy’s bread and butter—or maybe focaccia and olive oil—with a focus on Piedmont and Tuscany, new and old.
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As a bona fide tired mom, I’m here to attest to the fact that moms do a lot. A lot a lot. There’s unseen labor and research and consideration and love that goes into countless tasks, endless tasks; and I’m wagering that if there’s a mom in your life, she’s tired. She’s probably so tired from planning everything all the time to plan something nice for herself for Mother’s Day. That’s where you come in! And we’re here to help. Here are a few mother-approved tips that will help you make the mom in your life feel loved.
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Today's Newsletter takes us to Italy, with a focus of the northern half of the Boot. Top Tuscan reds lead the way, all in stock with glowing critical acclaim and exceptional pricing, and we introduce you to the stunning Alto Adige reds (yes, reds!) of the brilliant Elisabetta Foradori. A carefully curated selection of top buys puts the spotlight on Piedmont's recent vintages, and a trio of staff picks from our Italian team should be on everyone's radar.
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Today's Newsletter is the final installment of 2022, and we're ringing out the year with a bang. Our buyers have all pitched in to compile a wide-ranging selection of holiday winners for every palate, price tier, and festive occasion. Without further ado, we'd like to wish you Happy Holidays and all the best over the next few weeks and into the New Year.
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