Going Back to the Classics in Italy: Tuscany and Piedmont

Every time I write an introduction for one of these newsletters I feel a great weight, like all of Italy is depending on me to explain their wines, because a lot of the wines do take some explaining! Italy’s bountiful wine culture produces a plethora of styles from hundreds of unique varieties—it’s really complicated. It’s not just grape varieties that contribute to the intricacy of the wine culture; it’s the varied terrain of mountains, valleys, cliffs, plus a myriad of different trellising methods—and then there’s diverse winemaking methods such drying the grapes as well.  

This month it’s not so bad—I’m not including any varietals you’ve never heard of before—okay, maybe a couple of new ones, but not like the never-ending flow of newly discovered indigenous varieties that seem to cross my desk. This month I’ll be talking about Italy’s bread and butter—or maybe focaccia and olive oil—with a focus on Piedmont and Tuscany, new and old.

Italy has become the European destination for travel now—and not just the big cities, people are venturing all over the country. Still, Tuscany remains every tourist’s favorite destination. Fortunately, it produces wine that is perhaps easier to explain, even if Sangiovese is not an easy grape to understand—it takes lots of effort. It’s like reading philosophy; you may have to read that book many times before you actually get it, and you might not ever unless you get some help.

Piedmont is for the true food and wine junkie—fabulous restaurants everywhere, great wine, and hardly any tourists. While the Langhe hills are certainly a more concentrated and dramatic wine region than Tuscany, it’s the lack of tourists that really makes it special for me—and, ok also the food! It’s not just the Langhe either, Alto Piemonte is now fast becoming the darling of the cognoscenti with their multi-varietal and Nebbiolo-based wines. Asti as well has experienced a rebirth of quality, and the new Nizza appellation, 100% Barbera, has been producing really sensational wines.

So follow us this week on the blog, and let us show you the best of Italy. Here are my top three picks to get you started.

San Venanzio Fortunato Brut Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Superiore $13.99 Saints in Italy have remarkably long names and this one is a mouthful, but this Brut Prosecco from Valdobbiadene will rock your socks! It’s summer, and there’s nothing more thirst quenching than Prosecco, whether by itself or in an Aperol Spritz—and yes, the Prosecco does matter. The nose is full of ginger, pear, nectarines. The mousse is fine, long, supple, and finishes very dry. This is an exceptional bargain from our Direct Import portfolio.

Blason Isonzo Bianco (3L Bag-in-a-Box) $28.99 Apologies to all because we can’t ship this, but for all of you locals: I can’t ever keep this in stock. Made from old-vine Friulano—yes that’s true—this wine is an incredible value and will keep for weeks in your refrigerator if you can keep your hands off it. Everybody likes a glass of wine at the end of the day but opening an entire bottle doesn’t always seem economical; this Bag-in-a-Box on the other hand is uber-economical—and delicious! Get yours soon.

2021 Paolo Caciorgna "Ciauria" Etna Rosso $28.99 JS93 VN91 Etna is the hottest thing going in Italy now, and the long-dormant vineyards are now producing truly exceptional wines. Paolo Caciorgna [Ka-chore-nya] is one of Italy’s top consulting enologists, and this wine comes from his own property. The nose is expansive, dominated by red fruits with hints of volcanic soil. The color is pale but deceiving, the wine has depth, character, and is incredibly flavorful. Delicate, sweet tannins frame the wine on your palate followed by a long and lifted finish.

- Greg St. Clair, Italian Buyer