2019 Is a Dynamite Vintage for Barolo

K&L Wine Merchants' Italian Wine Buyer Greg St. Clair — K&L Italian Wine Maestro Greg St. Clair.

In Italy’s northwest corner, in the region of Piedmont, one of the world’s great wines is produced. In 2019 the weather gods have shined once again on the Langhe Hills and the Nebbiolo grapes that grow there. For Barolo lovers, 2019 is nothing less than dynamite.

This is a powerful vintage, one that you can lay down for a couple of decades. If you know someone born in 2019, this would make a perfect gift to the parents to cellar until their 21st birthday…. and far beyond! Interestingly this year reminds me of the 1999 vintage, which was another powerful, structured, and highly rated year. We have a great selection of some of the top wines, and here’s my selection for everyone on your nice list.

Young and Ready to Go
First the ultimate drinkable now—yes, young Barolo that is drinkable now—the delicious 2019 Damilano "Lecinquevigne" Barolo $39.99 97DC.

From Luigi Scavino
The supple and aromatic 2019 Azelia Barolo $49.99 93RP and 2019 Azelia "Bricco Fiasco" Barolo $123.99 96DC; then the powerful and deep wines grown in the Serralunga vineyards: 2019 Azelia "Margheria" Barolo $123.99 96DC; 2019 Azelia "San Rocco" Barolo $123.99 94RP; 2019 Azelia "Cerretta" Barolo $139.99 96RP.

Matteo Sardagna’s Superb Einaudi Wines
2019 Einaudi "Ludo" Barolo $49.99 93WS, 2019 Einaudi "Monvigliero" Barolo $84.99 93JS; 2019 Einaudi "Costa Grimaldi" Barolo $74.99 94WS; 2019 Einaudi "Cannubi" Barolo $79.99 96WS.

Giuseppe Vajra’s Scintillating and Aromatic Wines
2019 G.D. Vajra "Albe" Barolo $44.99 94RP; 2019 G.D. Vajra "Bricco delle Viole" Barolo $99.99 97VN; 2019 G.D. Vajra "Ravera" Barolo $99.99 96VN.

From La Morra Mauro Veglio
Alessandro Veglio has taken over for his Uncle Mauro and is making fabulous wines eschewing the barriques of the past. The 2019 Mauro Veglio Barolo $49.99 91VN, 2019 Mauro Veglio Barolo Serralunga d'Alba $59.99 92VN and the supple and inviting 2019 Mauro Veglio "Paiagallo" Barolo $84.99 95VN. The perennial GREAT DEAL and one of the last vintages Luca Currado made, the 2019 Vietti "Castiglione" Barolo $62.99 94VN

Casa d’Ambra from Ischia Is Our Newest Direct Import Winemaker

Andrea D'Ambra is the great grandson of founder Francesco D’Ambra, and today carries on the family tradition of making fantastic wines from the island of Ischia.

You’re probably more familiar with Ishcia’s neighbor, Capri, the more famous of the two islands off the coast of Naples—although almost half the size. It is a unique spot, rife with thermal hot springs. Casa d’Ambra has been growing grapes on Ischia for more than 150 years and is now run by Andrea d’Ambra, a grandson of the founder. More than a dozen years ago while I was at Vinitaly tasting the wines of Ischia for the first time, I was stunned by the quality.

It was the 2010 vintage that we first carried of the Frassitelli vineyard, a site that is perched on the side of a cliff overlooking the sea at more than 1500’ above sea level. The 2022 Casa d'Ambra "Frassitelli" Ischia Biancolella $25.99 has great depth, mineral character, and acidic focus but with a very rich body. It is made from 100% Biancolella grapes fermented in stainless steel and has an extended lees contact with frequent batonage that adds to the richness. This is absolutely stunning white wine for mineral-laden-terroir fans.

The 2022 Casa d'Ambra Ischia Biancolella $17.99 is made with 85% Biancolella with 15% of Forastera, San Lunardo, and Uva Rilla grapes. Their entry level 2022 Casa d'Ambra Falanghina IGT Campania $12.99 is an incredible bargain: it’s fresh, balanced, full of fruit and extraordinarily expressive. Pair it with the 2022 Casa d'Ambra Aglianico IGT Campania $12.99, a bold red, yet supple and drinkable for the powerful Aglianico grape. Best to decant for an hour ahead of time.

The 2020 Casa d'Ambra "Mario d'Ambra" Ischia Rosso $19.99 is made from a pair of native grapes Guarnaccia and Per'e Palummo. The wine has lots of black cherry, a little grip, and is perfect for heartier dishes.

Italian Dessert wines

Everyone I know says they don’t like dessert wines—that is until they taste one—and then everybody wants one! It’s like the word “sweet” in wine vernacular is poison! The real key to great sweet wine is balance. You can have wines with a lot of sugar, but, if they have a lot of acid, they’ll be refreshing and clean rather than cloying. I personally think that sweet wines shouldn’t go with sweet foods; they need to go with savory, otherwise it does become cloying.

One of the most refreshing wines you can have is Moscato d’Ast, and it is the perfect holiday wine. It’s very low in alcohol and a delicious way to end a meal. Here are some of my favorites. Frizzante—that’s fizzy—half the atmospheres of pressure so just a little bubbly 2022 Vietti Moscato d'Asti Cascinetta $16.99 and the 2022 Ca' del Baio Moscato d'Asti $18.99. These both exude classic flavors of peaches and flowers while being super well balanced! The nonvintage La Caudrina "La Selvatica" Asti $21.99 is full-on sparkling, with exceptional length and balance—just delicious.

If you are a fan of Moscato you need to try the 2022 Braida Brachetto d'Acqui $21.99. You can just think of it as Red Moscato, but Brachetto (bra-Ket-toe) is so fun!

Then a panoply of Vin Santo, the Tuscan Treasure, nutty, rich, and superb balance: 2014 Badia a Coltibuono Vin Santo del Chianti Classico (375ml) $49.99; 2009 Palazzo Vecchio Vin Santo di Montepulciano (500ml) $59.99; 2015 Capezzana Vin Santo (375ml) $94.99; and my personal favorite 2012 Rocca di Montegrossi Vin Santo (375ml) $84.99. From Italy’s most southern island the 2021 Donnafugata "Ben Ryè" Passito di Pantelleria (375ml) $49.99 shows Muscat aromatics with a honeyed finish!

- Greg St.Clair, K&L Italian Wine Buyer