Organic, Terroir-Driven Chianti from Fattoria Selvapiana
One of Tuscany’s least-known appellations is Chianti Rufina, so often pronounced incorrectly and confused with the Chianti producer Ruffino. The DOC is pronounced [ROO-fin-ah] and the producer is pronounced [Roof-fino], which is confusing even more when you know that the Ruffinos sold to Folonari and then bought Folonari. So the Folonaris own Ruffino and the Ruffinos own Folonari…alas, I digress.
This mysterious region has few producers, of which only a few are known in the U.S. Frescobaldi’s Nippozzano estate is perhaps the most famous, and the Fattoria Selvapiana after that. The region seems untouched and extraordinarily remote, but it’s only 15 miles from downtown Florence. Perhaps it is this spur of the Apennines that makes it seem so.
After WWII, Fattoria Selvapiana, like most winemakers in Tuscany, was still running on the mezzadria or share-cropping system. As this faded out in the 1950s and early 1960s, huge swaths of land basically were abandoned as all those who farmed them moved into the cities. At Fattoria Selvapiana there was a slow conversion as tiny parcels were redeveloped over the decades. In that era, many producers were planting “international” varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot—Selvapiana has always been just Sangiovese. Their wines have real harmony and show a bit more earth and forest floor than sweet fruit, and the vineyards are organically certified.
The 2021 Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rufina $17.99 is a classic example of their style—no wood influences, it seems just like a reflection of the soil. The nose is full of marasca cherry, pipe tobacco, and aromatic woods. On the palate it shows lots of Tuscan brush, more of that cherry, and a bit of ferrous soil character. Lots of buoyancy and freshness; just a wonderful wine.
The 2018 Fattoria Selvapiana "Bucerchiale" Chianti Rufina Riserva $32.99 JS94 WS91 is superb, always one of my favorite Chianti. The Bucerchiale, pronounced [Boo-chair-kee-ah-lay], vineyard was first produced in 1948 and sits at over 2,400 feet. It sees 15 months in French barriques, but only 10% are new, and just over 3,000 cases are produced. The nose of the wine is ethereal—violets and lilac aromatics, clove, orange peel, and earth. On the palate there’s lots of wild cherry, plum, leather, and Middle Eastern spices. This is a wine with some structure, a slight bit of grip, and it’s vibrant with lots of energy. Bucerchiale Riserve ages for a long time—10 years is nothing for them—20 to 30 years as well. To enjoy now, just decant for a couple of hours ahead of time while you’re preparing the grill for a Bistecca Fiorentina!