Focused, Lively Wines from Piedmont's Castello di Perno
Call me silly but I always find staying in castles a bit exciting—not that I’m into hanging out over the ramparts, but there’s just something about it. It’s no different at the Castello di Perno except this small castle is poised on a ridge above the village of Monforte d’Alba, one of my favorites in Barolo. It’s an old castle, but the thing that is really interesting is that Giulio Einaudi, one of Italy’s most famous publishers, owned this up until 2012 when Giorgio Gitti purchased it and the estate. They still have Einaudi’s library, and it gave me goosebumps when I visited and walked over the creaking wooden floor and smelled the dusty old manuscripts—it made me feel like I was in a castle!
Yet I was there to taste wine! Castello di Perno is a “new” project started in 2013 with the aim to produce single-varietal, single-vineyard wines. The winery was still under construction when I was there April 2022 but on track to be ready for that year’s harvest. The wines all show a remarkable clarity, brightness and focus, especially their 2019 Castello di Perno Langhe Nascetta $24.99 JS91. Nascetta is an indigenous varietal that produces a broad, rich, and complex wine sometimes lacking a little in acidity, but Perno’s version has energy, lift, and still shows the vibrant pear and apricot flavors.
Some might consider it a bit odd to be tasting wines from Asti while in Monforte, but I harbor no such guilt! The 2019 Castello di Perno Barbera d'Asti $22.99 is a classic—sharp and intense acidity provide a backbone for this wine that needs a fork and a plate of food by its side. I’d love to have this with a wild mushroom risotto or a cream-driven pasta to emulsify that acidity.
A few years back the folks in Asti decided to call their best Barbera zone “Nizza” instead of “Barbera from Nizza” just to make it difficult for people trying to guess which variety it is. Despite the labeling confusion, the wines ARE the BEST from Asti and show incredible power and depth. The 2017 Castello di Perno Nizza (Barbera) $34.99 is stunning. It should be decanted an hour ahead of time, treat it roughly and let a lot of air get to it. It spends 14 months in tonneaux to soften that acidity but shows superb depth and structure.
When you’re in the Langhe (the hills where Barolo and Barbaresco are) it is required to drink Nebbiolo. I’m always happy to oblige, especially when dining in the incredible array of fabulous restaurants in the area. Barolo is king here, but for everyday drinking one needs a 2019 Castello di Perno Langhe Nebbiolo $29.99. It spends eight months in large 20hl Slavonian oak casks and has a traditional feel—a bit of tannic grip (it is Nebbiolo) with an ethereal rose aromatic adorned with leather and spice. Drinkable now or you can age it for another 5-6 years.
The reason you come here however is for Barolo, and the 2017 Castello di Perno "Castelletto' Barolo $74.99 RP93 is lovely. Aged in 50hL Austrian oak barrels (those are big), the nose is full of rose and strawberry with hints of Earl Grey tea. On the palate it is concentrated but not without balance, more fruit compote and spice. A perfect complement to Brasato al Barolo (pot roast), trust me, you’ll love it.