Our Italian Wine Buyer is calling it: the 2015 vintage in Montalcino is stunningly—exceptionally—good.
Another Brunello di Montalcino Vintage of the Century!
How often we’ve heard this cry, and we’re not even through the first two decades of this century! Let’s talk for a moment once again about the “perhaps” Vintage-of-the-Century and Best-Vintage-of-All-Time verbiage that is being thrown around for the upcoming release of the 2015 vintage. I’ve had more than 30 bottles of the 2015s at different stages over the years since it was harvested—some multiple times—and I can tell you this is a truly great vintage! I am on the record saying that 2010 was the best vintage that I’ve ever tasted across the board, the wines had a completely different profile than any previous vintage, they were so savory, less obviously fruity and perfectly balanced.
I’ve specialized in Montalcino for a long time and have been going there two to three times a year since my first visit in 1982. I like to think I’ve witnessed the evolution of the wine and region since then, the quality increase in winemaking and investment, but one thing stands out: the work in the vineyards. The grapes themselves are so much healthier now and better taken care of, and there’s no amount of winemaking that can make up for that quality. I think we are experiencing Montalcino like never before.
So judging the greatest vintage of all time is really hard, as each vintage in its time had specific qualities. 1999 was the vintage for me. Its dazzling balance was incredible, and that made it unique. Some individual wines were just so special. I remember the 1985 Poggio Antico …amazing, heads above the rest of the vintage.
Greg admits that judging wine vintages is a subjective endeavor, but he’s been around long enough to be able to point to vintages that deserve to go straight to your cellar.
Yet we’re at the release of the 2015, without a doubt a stunningly good vintage. This vintage’s character is decidedly fruitier than 2010, but the moment I write that, I feel that one might get the wrong idea: this isn’t California fruity. This has concentrated, saturated flavors that are coupled with an incredibly polished, supple mouth feel that just goes on and on. These are really, really good wines. They are incredibly drinkable right now and are delicious, but, in a year, or three they’re going to close up and really not be their best until starting in 2025. That’s just the evolution of good Brunello.
I will be in Montalcino in early February for a week, and upon my return I’ll issue a report on the individual wines. James Suckling has already come out with his report on 2015 and given eleven wines a 100-point score and more 95+-point scores than ever before. You know that there will be a huge rush to buy those and the other top scoring wines, so you may not want to wait on those for my review. Best to buy when they’re available! A word about availability: the greatest number of producers in Montalcino are very small. They might produce from 350–1500 total cases of Brunello, so quantities will be limited.
If you’re among the cognoscenti, then you already know that some are saying 2016 is better than 2015 with hushed, knowing tones and the winking of an eye. Well I try not to use “better” as an adjective for a subjective concept, because there will be exceptions for every example. However, 2016 is an incredibly freaking good vintage! Truly stunning and very different from 2015 in its more linear, less ripe, more “classic” feel. You should devise a buying and cellaring strategy for the wines because you’ll definitely want both vintages. As much as I would stand by the descriptions I’ve given for each vintage, each producer’s wines will have their own character and future, and that is what should guide your purchase.
One last word from one of the cognoscenti….2019 is another absolutely unbelievable vintage, the 2019 Brunello won’t be released until 2024 so you don’t have to worry. But beginning in 2021 when the 2019 Rosso di Montalcino begin to arrive you should avail yourself and get a real feel for what this vintage will become. If you have any individual questions you can write me at [email protected]
- Greg St. Clair