Clyde's Corner: Carbonnieux Blanc

Carbonnieux is an estate with Medieval origins in Bordeaux, and 20th-century origins at K&L. We’ve been stocking them for a long time, and that’s because we’re epic fans. And we’re not the only ones—even noted oenophile Thomas Jefferson once made a visit to their cellars. They also continually provide Clyde with excellent Bordeaux Blanc, and this installment of Clyde’s corner is all about a few of his faves.

I have a soft spot in my heart for Carbonnieux. I met Anthony Perrin (owner) in 1985 and he led a contingent of Bordeaux people to K&L for several years—before Mickey Dora did. In the late 1980s he brought us to a dinner and tasting with an all star lineup:

Perrin, from Carbonnieux
Anthony Barton, from Leoville-Barton
May Eliane Lencquesaing, from Pichon-Lalande
Jean Michel Cazes, from Lynch-Bages
Jean Paul Valette, from Pavie
Thiery Monocourt, from Figeac
Mr Gibouland, from Fieuzel

Also it was at the Fête de la Fleur at Carbonnieux in 2001 that i was inducted into the Commanderie de Bon Temps, and my sponsors were May Eliane of Pichon and Frederic Engerer of Latour. 

Carbonnieux whites are among the best values in all of France.  The delicious, mature 2013, with its bracing acidity; the straightforward fine 2016, and the heavenly balanced 2017 are three great wines. 

2013 Carbonnieux Blanc, Pessac-Léognan $38.99
Fabulous, complete wine with an elegant slightly oaky, melony, and citric hints. Pure and mouthfilling white in perfect balance. So good—great depth of flavor and sweetness. I love it. 75% SBl/25% Semillon. 93-94 JS. Now at seven years old this wine is still great. The bracing acidity of the vintage has held the wine together. Slight golden color. Cinammon toast aromas and clean, refreshing flavors. Try with a chicken dish or lobster.

2016 Carbonnieux Blanc, Pessac-Léognan $34.99
Another outstanding dry white from this famous property. A slightly toasty, mineral nose with touch of lanolin underneath. A slightly fuller style here—rounder and rich on palate, but that fine acidity is perfect at the finish which is long and lingering. A perfect match for a lobster.

2017 Carbonnieux Blanc, Pessac-Léognan $41.99
WOW! This dry white has it all—minerals, citrus, elegance, acidity, white flower. 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Semillon. The figgy nature of Semillon shows through, balanced by the bracing acidity of the Sauvignon Blanc. Very vibrant wine that drinks perfectly right now and will cellar well for several years. Just so delicious—you will drink the whole bottle. Clams, oysters, petrale sole—heck, or just by the pool. This is so good! In November of 2020, Wine Enthusiast put it at #4 on their Wines of the Year list for 2020. Try it.

- Clyde Beffa Jr.