Profound Blanc de Noir from Gosset
Champagne Gosset has been in business since 1584, and, when they decide to release a one-off, I pay attention. Chef de Cave Odilon de Varin takes the tradition of this historic house very seriously, and nothing here happens on a whim. This producer’s heart is in the village of Aÿ, the grand valley of the Marne’s Pinot Noir capital, and their just-released Gosset Grand Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut Champagne is a tribute to the majesty of that grape in Champagne. While a non-vintage Champagne at a premium price might seem strange, this is a great value for what is in the bottle: the wine is profound, unique, and, on top of everything else, rare… It won’t be made again.
This 100% Pinot Noir Champagne has been aged for over 9 years on the lees and is sourced mostly from Aÿ Grand Cru, with some fruit also coming from Ambonnay, Chigny-les-Roses, Tauxieres, and Verzy. Like all the Gosset Champagne, it has not undergone malolactic fermentation or seen any barrel fermentation. It is dosed at 5 grams per liter of sugar, and comes across as a dry brut style, not an aggressive extra brut.
I made a salmon mousse to pair with this, which was a very successful pairing. This is one of the best bottles of Champagne that I have had in 2020, and I am very excited to offer it to you. For me, greatness in Champagne can only come from a mature wine, and that mature wine must also still have great freshness. I want both. In this bottle, I was treated to plenty of complexity and texture from time on the lees, but also to fabulous chalky freshness thanks to the exceptional terroir of Aÿ, and the lack of malolactic fermentation. I found the wine to have great power and breadth, with a dark-bake sourdough toast and a hint of new leather in the middle of the savory, red Pinot fruit. The long and ultra-bright finish is what makes this wine truly great, as it has the kind of swell that one usually only finds in fine Burgundy, and the cut that only the chalkiest sites in Champagne can deliver. If a splurge is in the budget, don’t miss this one.
A toast to you!
- Gary Westby