Thanksgiving Wines for Every Table
The memories from childhood Thanksgivings live somewhere deep in my core and they all blur together. They’re less narrative than sensory: sitting on an overstuffed blue sofa in a dim living room, watching Rogers and Hammerstein musicals, inhaling smells of the Swedish meatballs we’d soon have for appetizers, including my favorite, Ranch dip and Ruffles. I’m a child of the 80s, and there were certain non-negotiables on the Thanksgiving table that marked the era: Ocean Spray cranberry sauce from the can, Mrs. Cubison’s stuffing, buttery mashed potatoes, and a juicy Butterball bird. You can tell a lot about a family by their Thanksgiving spread, even though the fundamentals of the Thanksgiving menu are nearly the same at any table—turkey, gravy, cranberries, repeat. But the character that each family brings to that menu is incredibly personal. It’s shaped by the trends of the era and the temperment of the family (and especially of the family’s head cook!). It’s a ritual that builds year after year into something grander than the meal itself—the soft-edged, sepia tones of core memories melding together.
Now, as an adult, I’ve changed quite a bit about what I serve on Thanksgiving, though I still hold fast to a few of those childhood favorites (I’ll admit a soft spot for Mrs. Cubison’s stuffing). Though each year I experiment with a few new recipes, one of the mainstays on my Thanksgiving table is a long-pondered, carefully curated lineup of wines—and I can say without doubt that each K&L wine geek we have on staff does the same. Food-and-wine pairing is more than a parlor trick; it’s a brain teaser than can bring out the real joy in eating. On Thanksgiving, when there are myriad flavors and textures on the same plate, wine lovers have their work cut out for them. Do we lean into the acidity of the cranberries or the umami of the gravy? Do we go with classic choices like Burgundy or Beaujolais? Adventurous ones like Gewürztraminer or an off-dry Vouvray? And, can you really ever fail with Champagne?
This week, we’re doing a roundup of favorite in-stock choices from our wine buyers—each handpicked, each as unique as the buyers themselves. The choice is up to you—all of the wines we’ll feature are delicious with Thanksgiving foods, but the way you make the holiday table is entirely yours. Cheers to new memories!
What Is Better for Thanksgiving than Perfectly Aged, Sweet Merlot from Bordeaux?
by Clyde Beffa Jr., Bordeaux Buyer
The 2001 from Barde-Haut is hitting a sweet spot.
2001 Barde-Haut, St-Emilion (Elsewhere $80) $49.99 95JD From one of our favorite vintages and definitely one of our favorite producers. Winemaker Hélène Garcin-Lévêque and husband/vineyard manager Patrice have fashioned many great value vintages at Barde-Haut, and this 2001 exemplifies their skills. This 20-year-old beauty has some savory aromas of olives underlined by a bit of sweet, toasty oak and black fruit flavors. It shows fine acid, balance, and soft, ripe tannins. Perfect with roast Turkey. I give it a 100+ points. In 2020, Jeb Dunnuck said: “The 2001 Château Barde-Haut offers a full-bodied, beautifully textured style on the palate as well as incredibly complex notes of blackcurrants, chocolate, tobacco, and Asian spices. With resolved tannins, a great mid-palate, and a concentrated, rich, powerful style, it's another 2001 that's drinking brilliantly today.” I wholeheartedly agree!
Vintage Spanish Bubbles All the Livelong Turkey Day
by Kirk Walker, Spain Buyer
2021 Raventós i Blanc "Blanc de Blancs" Brut Conca del Riu Anoia $21.99 This organically grown sparkling wine from Catalonia is an incredible option for Thanksgiving. It is very dry, with fine bubbles, subtle yeastiness, vibrant fruit tones, and a faint saline minerality. How good does that sound? Elegant, refreshing, and complementary to food. There is neither time nor place where that combination does not work. After a Turkey Trot? Why not? In the kitchen prepping, nibbling, and cooking? Definitely. Watching the games while playing games? Sure thing. Hanging out, chatting, and catching up? Absolutely. And finally with the meal itself. I’m not suggesting that you drink only the Raventós i Blanc "Blanc de Blancs" Brut, but there could be worse things to do. This is a Mediterranean sparkling wine, made in a unique region south of Barcelona with varieties that are native to the region. I love framing this as a Mediterranean wine, my food, and snacks (on any occasion) steer more towards Mediterranean flavors than towards continental ones. We might not be hanging out in Barcelona or in Mallorca, but with this we can pretend, just a little….
An Italian Pink Worthy of Top Billing
by Greg St. Clair, Italy Buyer
2022 Nervi-Conterno "Il Rosato" Vino Rosato $24.99 It is not often that I look to a pink wine to be the center piece of a meal, but when I tasted this wine last week I was totally blown away. THIS will be my turkey wine. The wine is pale, in the Provençcal style, and the nose is hypnotic. It’s 90% Nebbiolo with its layers of complexity—aromas of earth, spice, rose, smoke, and truffle—the nose is tremendous. Yet it is on the palate where the wine really shines: it is voluptuous, sensuous, and has an intensity of flavor that saturates your palate. The finish seems not to actually finish—ever. The myriad flavors and textures drive the wine on and on. This is a must before we run out of it—you need to buy some!