Gilbert-Jacquesson: A Growers’ Grower Making Great Champagne
Nothing beats a tasting at the dining room table of a great grower, especially when that grower is Jean-Baptiste Jacquesson and the dining room looks out onto the vineyards of Troissy in the Marne Valley. He makes just 35,000 bottles a year from his 17 acres of vineyards and does almost every bit of the work himself. The balance of the production is sold to a négociant as vin clair as he has the press and tank capacity to deliver his extra as still wine to the big house. He says “Naturally, I keep the best for myself…” The vineyard is planted to 75% Meunier, 20% Chardonnay, and 5% Pinot Noir, and he is blessed with a lot of old massal plots that his father planted in the 1960s. He uses a combination of wood barrels and stainless steel tanks for the first fermentation and then ages everything for a very long time on the lees before release—we have two bottlings that are over nine years old. They are both under $40!
Our best value in rosé Champagne is his Gilbert Jacquesson "Cuvée Eugénie" Brut Rosé Champagne at $29.99. This 100%-Meunier bottling is named after his daughter Eugénie who helped her dad out at our tasting by bringing glasses and clearing them. It is aged for three years on the lees and is made entirely in stainless steel tank. The red wine is added in small percentages and is made from old vines, giving the wine a very pretty pale pink color. The aromatics are generous, with baguette toast and bright red fruit. In the mouth it is medium bodied, with yet more red fruit. The finish is clean and dry. If you like rosé, there is no reason not to try this inflation-busting, all-estate-grown wonder.
Jean-Baptiste does not often make Blanc de Blancs, but I was lucky enough to taste a preview of his current Blanc de Blancs with him, which is based on 2018. Right now, the Gilbert Jacquesson Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne that we have in stock is in fact 2013 base, just disgorged last year with an incredible eight years on the lees. At $34.99, this is another no-brainer for Champagne lovers to try. With Meursault-lke richness, fabulous brioche, and Meyer lemon flavors, plus 2013’s incredibly fresh acidity, this was my top find of last year… We still have just a few left.
The top wine that JB makes is his Gilbert Jacquesson "Cuvée Prestige" Brut Champagne. A special deal has allowed us to drop the price by $10 down to $34.99. It is the only Champagne that we have in stock at this price that is entirely barrel fermented and aged for seven years on the lees. It is composed of 40% Meunier, 30% Chardonnay, and 30% Pinot Noir; 60% of the wine comes from a solera that he started back in 2004. He blocks the malolactic on this cuvée, and the results are a concentrated, rich Champagne in the style of Krug or Bollinger, but with a wilder, all-Troissy signature. The back end is still fresh as the 2014 vintage it is based on was racy and needed the time to arrive.
Don’t miss these wines!
A toast to you!