Ile de Beauté: Wines of Corsica
Each day this week on the blog, in lieu of our bi-weekly PDF newsletter, K&L French Regional Buyer Keith Mabry will be shining a spotlight on the wines that make up this fun-filled category—these are not the wines that fetch thousands at auctions; these are affordable, delicious wines that you want at your dinner table each night, especially in the summer. From regions like Corbières, Corsica, and Picpoul, where summer is something of a national pastime, these wines are the perfect pairing for sunny weather, beachy vibes, and barbecues. Join us this week for a deep dive into some of the most summery wines around!
Corsica is known as the Isle of Beauty (Ile de Beauté) in France, and deservedly so—the topography is wondrous. The island, which is the fourth largest in the Mediterranean, has beautiful mountains and is surrounded by over 600 miles of coastline and 200+ beaches. There seems to be no bad view anywhere. The culture shares some crossover between Italy and France. Though French is the official language, Corscians will tell you they follow their own customs and often speak their own native language, Corsu. Corsica remains a jewel in the Mediterranean that many civilizations have tried to conquer, but thanks to that strong sense of independence and those high, peaked mountains, they always managed to fight off invaders and hold onto their local culture.
The wineries of Corsica focus on just a few key indigenous varieties for most of their production. There are two major red wine grapes that are native to the island. In areas like Patrimonio in the north, the focus is Nielucciu (likely a clonal mutation of Sangiovese); in the south and west around the area of Ajaccio, the prominent red grape is Sciaccarellu. For whites, Vermentinu is the most universal grape, grown all over the island. There are several heirloom grapes that are finding their way back into production, but they have not yet reached critical mass and do not have an outsized influence in winemaking...yet!
Ramazotti brothers, owners of Domaine Petroni winery on the island of Corsica
As Corsica has gained more prominence in the international wine scene, there has been a higher cost of entry to drink their wines. You may be familiar with some of the greats—Yves Leccia, Clos Canarelli, and Domaine Maestracci—who have had a strong European presence for decades, but whose wines fetch relatively high prices. Luckily, about 10 years ago, we were introduced to Domaine Petroni. This small domaine sits on the eastern side of the island near Lake Diane, a large lagoon famous for its shellfish cultivation. Since we added their wines to our shelves, the breakout star has been the rosé. The new vintage has just arrived, and the 2022 Domaine Petroni Corse Rosé $14.99 is pure freshness and pleasure. It’s dry, but not too dry. This has always screamed “summer in a glass,” and, with its flavors of strawberry and watermelon, it is hard to argue with that. There’s little wonder why this continues to be one of our best-selling and most-requested rosés each season.
Not far off in popularity are Petroni’s red and white wines. When we first tried them, oh so many years ago, they tasted like decent regional value wines. Since hiring a new winemaker about six years ago, however, the winery has started to hit that Corsican vibe much more clearly—and now the wines sing. The 2021 Domaine Petroni Corse Blanc $14.99 is 100% Vermentinu. For fans of Italian Vermentino or Provençal Rolle (all three, in fact, are the same grape), this has all the characteritic crisp, clear tones that you are looking for. A touch more white flower in this wine gives aromatic lift, while a little burst of salinity on the finish makes you dream of spending warm summer nights on a Mediterranean beach. A terrific wine for those on the hunt for clarity. The red has evolved beautifully in its style and expression of terroir over the years. The 2020 Domaine Petroni Corse Rouge $14.99 is a blend of Niellucciu, Grenache, and Syrah, with a little more heft and weight behind it, but a southern Italian vibe on the palate. You can still see the French influence, though. The wine shows beautiful blackberry (blackberries are prevalent on the island) with tobacco and herbs de Provence notes to round out its savory qualities.
All three wines speak of summer dishes, whether you serve grilled salmon or halibut with the rosé and the blanc, or grilled meats with the red. Pour a glass and taste a little of what the Ile of Beaute has to offer... and maybe start planning a visit there. Just remember, they welcome visitors, but no conquerors, please!
- Keith Mabry, French Regional Buyer