The Zippy, Seafood-Friendly, Utterly Affordable Picpoul
One of the few regions in France’s Languedoc whose wines have the focus and clarity of a single variety is Picpoul de Pinet. The grape itself is called Picpoul (also spelled Piquepoul) and is often used in white Rhône blends, most prominently Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc. But in the Languedoc, it is dedicated to single-variety white wines that show bright citrus notes and acid drive. Picpoul de Pinet (the region) sits along the Etang du Thau, a large saltwater lagoon where oysters and other shellfish are cultivated. And though we often speak of the regional wines going hand-in-hand with the local foods, this pairing is so beautifully on-the-nose that you can’t help but go to an oyster shack alongside the water, get a dozen oysters, and crack a bottle of Picpoul de Pinet to drink alongside them (or wish you were there to do so when you crack open a bottle at home). It’s a magical pairing! The best fruit comes from the plateaus that are exclusively planted to this grape, yet even with this pedigree, the wines still come in at a very reasonable cost. Most Picpouls are still sub-$20, which makes them some of the best daily drinkers you can find out there.
We work with the local cooperative in Florensac, one of the main villages in the region, to make three different wines for our shelves. The first is the 2021 Cave de Florensac "Bleu Blanc" Cotes de Thau $9.99. This is a blend of Picpoul and Terret Blanc (another local grape), and it is one of the most “crushable” whites of the season. Filled with lime fruit, sweet apple notes, and a touch of salinity, it goes down easy and makes the perfect poolside sipper.
The star of the show is always the 2021 Montmassot Picpoul de Pinet $11.99. We sell cases of this all year long, and it is easy to see why. The citrus aromas are prominent on the nose: luscious lemon and lime flavors that are so refreshing. Underlying the citrus grove, you’ll find subtle notes of white flowers and salty sea air that add complexity. It’s such an ideal pairing with shellfish. Don’t limit yourself with this wine: it works great as an aperitif but will also work well with seafood and fowl dishes.
Something new and truly superb is a reserve bottling of the Picpoul. The 2021 Cave de Florensac "Selection" Picpoul de Pinet $17.99 is held longer on the lees in tank, adding a little more richness and depth of flavor than its entry level release. Instead of the bright and fresh top notes like the Montmassot, you get a little deeper profile of Meyer lemon, tangerine peel, acacia honey, and wet stone. Of course it would be great with seafood but I am thinking braised pork with polenta. The acid will cut through the richness and give it lift, making even this richer dish feel light by comparison. And that’s the beauty of Picpoul, these are bright, fresh, and vibrant wines that should command summer drinking obsession!