Australian Shiraz Redefined
Shiraz has long been synonymous with Australian wine. As the most planted variety in the country, it consistently garners a significant share of international awards and accolades. Classic Aussie Shiraz, which reflects Australia's warm climate, is characterized by its intense concentration, deep color, and robust fruit profile. This truly unique wine style has earned its place in the international canon of distinguished wines. But here in the United States, Shiraz has had something of an image problem. Many wine enthusiasts assume Australian Shiraz is poor quality, excessively sweet, and dull–essentially describing Yellowtail. But I'm here to tell you that there is a whole world of Australian Shiraz characterized by extraordinary quality, ageability, and deliciousness, all while staying true to the wine's classic style.
This is particularly evident in South Australia, where over the past decade, a new generation of talented and passionate winemakers has emerged that is crafting distinctive and ambitious Shiraz, while maintaining its classic profile. Though diverse, they all share a common thread: miniscule production size. Producers like Callum Powell and Doug Standish are pushing the boundaries of Australian Shiraz by focusing on small, old-vine vineyard sources and obsessively paying attention to detail at every stage of the winemaking process. Their limited production size reflects their pursuit of quality; if they made any more they would be sacrificing their obsessive attention to detail.
As a result, these new “classic” Australian Shiraz emphasize finesse, detail, and structure. Focused on terroir-driven expressions, they showcase refined complexity, highlighting the unique characteristics of each vineyard or region. This includes greater acidity and structure, and a more judicious use of oak that allows the nuances of fruit, spice, and earthy undertones to take center stage. Critics and enthusiasts alike have recognized the exceptional quality of this new wave, lauding their sophistication, finesse, and remarkable versatility. Here are three producers who are redefining the quality of Shiraz in South Australia:
Winemaker Callum Powell is Australian winemaking royalty. His father David launched Torbreck in 1996 to instant international acclaim, and has worked side-by-side with Callum at Powell and Sons for over a decade. Callum’s new venture is Agricola. The 2021 Agricola Vintners "Ebenezer" Shiraz Barossa Valley $79.99 94WA is crafted from a vineyard planted in 1951 in the Ebenezer subregion of North Barossa. This is classic, full-bodied, Shiraz that is plush and round with a supple elegant mouthfeel, and yet has plenty of finesse. Flavors and aromas of cassis, blackberry pie, salted licorice, and cocoa powder.
North of Barossa, Adelina is crafting some of the best wines in the heart of the Clare Valley, situated right next door to AP Birks Wendouree (quite possibly the most difficult to acquire wine in the world). 2021 Adelina Shiraz Clare Valley South Australia $49.99 94JS 93WA is an absolute standout. This Shiraz contrasts deep, rich fruit with spicy, floral aromatics with an intricate bouquet of purple fruits, asphalt, tar, lavender, and violets. On the palate, it shows a richness of blackberry and plum that is beautifully balanced by notes of cracked pepper, licorice, and earthy undertones.
The 2021 Standish "Schubert Theorem" Shiraz $139.99 99WA is a tribute to the esteemed Marananga sub-region of Barossa Valley. Sourced from low-yielding, dry-grown vines primarily planted in the early 20th century, this wine boasts dark fruit, spice, and hints of chocolate on the nose. As a full-bodied Shiraz, it presents beautifully integrated tannins and vibrant acidity, alongside lush flavors of blackberry, plum, and baking spices on the palate. The Schubert Theorem effortlessly balances fruit radiance and plush tannic texture, brimming with energy and abundance.