A Master Class in Rioja from Miguel Merino
Rioja is easily the most famous wine region in Spain, as it has been exporting its wines to eager fans in Europe and beyond for over a century. How did it get so popular? Let’s take a quick half-step back: Rioja was exported to the world with the help of the Bordelais who, while struggling with Phylloxera, came to Rioja seeking Phylloxera-free vineyards to make their wines. In effect, they created what was to become Rioja’s modern industry. This long history and Rioja’s traditional styles—the Reservas, Gran Reservas, and Crianza—are what the Rioja region has been built on. And it’s these classic expressions, where the style is determined by the duration of aging, that are the most popular at K&L.
Yet there is indeed a new movement in Rioja, and like all movements, it is a reaction to what came before. The new style of wine is not determined by age but by place. Over the last two decades, Rioja’s winemakers and young producers have been visiting other classic, European regions like Burgundy and Barolo, where wines can be defined by individual plots and are made from single villages, single vineyards, and single varietals. Wines are made in a fashion where they express their region's terror more succinctly. We happen to love both styles, and well-made wines in each of these styles can have a deep and rewarding conversation with each other and, in the end, give us a delicious opportunity to explore the nuances of an amazing wine region.
If there were one winery in all of Rioja that I would point to that would express what is happening in Rioja right now—old school meets new school; age-driven meets terroir-driven style—that would be Bodega Miguel Merino. It was founded in the village of Briones in the mid-90s by Miguel Merino Senior. He had spent two decades working in the Rioja export business and followed his dream of establishing his own winery in the village where he thought the best Riojas came from—in the sub-appellation of Rioja Alta on the southern side of the Ebro River, not too far from Haro and San Vicente de la Sonsierra. The vineyards that surround the village are planted in some of the most exciting soils of the region: gravelly alluvial, poor limestone, and some very sandy sites.
Bodegas Miguel Merino is still a small family operation, and they’ve managed to make a large reputation in a region that is dominated by large-scale projects. Miguel Merino Jr. joined the winery full time in 2017. With him taking a more active role in the family business, things started to change subtly—and not so subtly. They cleaned up their viticultural practices, stopped using herbicides, and are converting to organics. Senior was old school; he loved the classic Rioja wines that he sold around the world, and, to him Gran Reserva was the ultimate expression of the winery. Junior is from the modern school of thought, and he has been slowly shifting their house’s style towards more subtlety. Junior has introduced more single-vineyard wines and freshened their style. These are very exciting wines; they offer some of the best representations of both traditional and modern wines.
2017 Miguel Merino Reserva Rioja $29.99 & 2017 Miguel Merino Reserva Rioja (1.5L bottle) $64.99
This is a Reserva to rival all other Reservas on our shelves, even those from the most famous producers. Sourced from vineyards that are over 50 years old, this is a blend of mostly Tempranillo with a little Graciano. It was aged for 19 months in used American oak. Full-bodied, structured, and elegant, with layers of ripe fruit, spice, leather, and earth. This Reserva, with a little more to the fruit and a touch less oak, is a wine with an easy approachability—a wine that will elevate any occasion.
2016 Miguel Merino Gran Reserva Rioja $39.99 & 2016 Miguel Merino Gran Reserva Rioja (1.5L bottle) $84.99 WA94 TA92 Miguel Merino Senior was old-school Rioja, and before he started this winery it was his job to bring the wines of Rioja to the world as an exporter. To him the Gran Reservas were the flagships of the region. And for the longest time this was the flagship of the winery. This is a classic Gran Reserva with a twist. That twist is all French oak. It is structured and intense—this is a Rioja with poise. It has all the classic leather, tobacco, spice tones you’d expect, but it’s extremely refined. The tannins, while present, are softer and polished. The finish is long with fruit and spice lingering over an earthy minerality—old-school Rioja that is keeping up with the times.
2020 Miguel Merino "Viñas Jóvenes" Crianza Rioja $19.99 WA91 TA91 This entry-level wine is made with some of their youngest (joven) vineyards. A blend of mostly Tempranillo with a little Garnacha and Graciano. This is a wine that is made with a nod to the future, vines do not live forever. You must plant vines now to have older vines later. This is sourced from those vineyards. It spent 12 months in used barrels, barrels that the Reserva wine was aged in. These have staves of American oak and the heads from French oak. It is easy to think of this wine as a Crianza but it is not labeled as such. The nose has lots of mixed berries that are backed with hints of spice and oak. The palate is medium-full-bodied and dominated by the fruit. It is fresh with noticeable but polished tannins. The earth and spice notes of Rioja are here but more subtle. Delicious and understated, a great wine for any occasion.
2020 Miguel Merino "Quinta Cruz" Manzuelo Rioja $34.99 TA98
Manzuelo is the Rioja name for Carignan. This is a single-vineyard, single-varietal bottling of Manzuelo—it could be the only one made in Rioja. Quinta Cruz is on a steep hillside with gravelly soils near the Ebro River. It has a brightness and purity that comes from the cooler vintage, but with the elegant structure and intensity that the varietal is known for. Dark berries, spice and flowers play on the nose. Aged in large French oak and concrete, this finishes long and concentrated with berries and spice.
2020 Miguel Merino "Blanco" Rioja (Previously $55.00) $39.99 WA94 TA94
Old-vine Viura (also known as Macabeo) from select blocks in the La Loma vineyard where the soil has the most limestone. This is a great white wine. A wine that can comfortably be compared to some of the finest white wines from anywhere in the world, but the easiest comparison would be to white Burgundy. Fermented and aged in 500L French oak. It has the cool reserve of the best wines from the Côte-d'Or, but it is more expressive. Viura has a wider range of fruit tones than Chardonnay. The aromatics and flavors are dominated by citrus and stone fruits. Grapefruit, lemon, apples, and pears but with tangerine and peach notes that give it a little more exotic tone. The palate is silky and supple with the French oak softening vibrant acidity. It finishes long and fresh with a persistent minerality.
2020 Miguel Merino "La Loma" Rioja $59.99 TA97
It is with wines like this that the inspiration comes more from Burgundy or Barolo than from traditional Rioja. La Loma comes entirely from a tiny 1.4ha vineyard that was planted to Tempranillo and Garnacha in 1946. It is in an incredibly special site, with calcareous soils with some gravels and iron rich clays. It was aged in 500L French oak barrels for 14 months. This wine balances power and elegance. The dark fruit is backed by subtle spice and intriguing earthy elements.