The White Pearl of Champagne: Petiau
In the part of Champagne known most for Pinot Noir, there is a magical place called La Perle Blanche de la Montagne de Reims, the east-facing slope of this small but prominent hill. The first village of this sub-region is the Premier Cru of Trépail, where the Petiau family tends to a small but exceptional vineyard. In the past, this family ran the nursery for the surrounding area, and like many of the best producers in Champagne, they have continued to nurture their own massal selection of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, choosing not to use the earlier ripening, more generously bearing modern clones. This great plant material, in conjunction with a lot of patience for long aging in the cellar, makes these wines really stand out. Because we buy the bottles directly from the family, the value is also outstanding.
I think that the Petiau Brut Grande Réserve Champagne $34.99 and Petiau Brut Grande Réserve Champagne Magnum 1.5L $69.99 are truly among the best buys a person could make for a delicious aperitif. It is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, based on 2018 with 25% reserve wines from previous years. The primary fermentation is done is stainless steel, but then the wine is treated to five years of aging on the lees in the bottle, double of what commercial Champagne like Veuve Clicquot gets. The wine has fine pain au levin aromas, subtle citrus, and a fantastic creamy texture that focuses into a long, bright finish. In magnum it gets an extra year of aging, and shows all the better for it.
The Petiau Brut Rosé Champagne $34.99 is based on the 2021 harvest, also with 25% reserves, and is also roughly the same composition of grapes, but with 7% of red wine added. This red wine came from 200 bottles that they opened and poured back into the tank of 2018 Pinot Noir that was supposed to be just for family consumption. When the family realized that they would be out of rosé in a few years, they decided to make this unprecedented move—they said “It is fun to open a bottle or two, but no fun to open 200.” I believe it! The Pinot Noir for the red wine was picked very late, and foot trodden—I promise that it is the only rosé around that is made this way—and the results are fantastic. It has the same creamy quality that the Grande Réserve has, but on top of it is an elusive, seductive, Volnay like maraschino cherry. The finish is very snappy, dry and clean.
My favorite of their range is the Petiau "Cuvée Prestige" Brut Champagne $49.99, composed of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir from the 50 to 80 year old mother vines on the best situated mid-slope parts of the property. This wine is based on 2017 with 24% reserves from past vintages and aged for six years on the lees. The bouquet is a parade of nuts, brioche, and citrus preserves and in the mouth the creamy, elegant texture reminds me of much more expensive tete de cuvée bottlings. The finish is super long, expansive and mineral.
While Trépail is much more famous for Chardonnay, the Petiau Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Champagne $39.99 comes from Ambonnay, and is the only wine like this that I have had from this famous Pinot Noir village! It is understated, bracing and full of white fruit. Also, our Champagne club members will be happy to find out that a little bit more of the Petiau Brut "Carte d'Or" Champagne $39.99, which was featured in the April Club, has arrived.
Don’t miss trying these fantastic Champagnes.
A toast to you!